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Rock climbing - Postavaru
 
Faleza Postavaru
Town: Rasnov
Massif: Postavaru
10 % 55 % 25 % 10 % 60 m SV 35 min
* * * * * * * * * No Yes Rating
100 sport climbing routes  
 
Area character
"Aboland" crag is located 10km from "Rasnov" town, to the West end of "Postavaru" massif. The picturesque landscape makes this area weekend treat, especially during hot summer days. The crag is one of the newest climbing areas in "Romania". You can camp in a tent or stay overnight at one of the many chalets in the area. You can find drinking water on the left side of the river which flows through the "Rasnoavei" gorge, at the base of "Creasta Generalului" route. Besides climbing, you can enjoy the Tyrolean traverse between the two rock walls that guard the "Rasnoavei" gorge, or you can bungee-jump on one of the highest natural bungee-jumping facility in eastern "Europe".
Bolting: This is one of the newest climbing areas in "Romania", therefore the bolting is according to the most demanding standards, with stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Sun: The wall is exposed to sun-light all day long. We don't recommend climbing here on hot summer days.
Rain: On rainy days, the rock becomes wet very easily, but dries very quickly after, due to strong winds.
Seasons: During summer we recommend climbing here only in the morning or late in the evening as the rock is exposed to direct sunlight. Spring and autumn are ideal seasons for climbing here. On sunny winter days if there is no wind, you can enjoy a pleasant climbing experience.
Climbing in Sector D
 
Orientation
GPS Rasnov Centre
45.593820 N
25.460223 E 		GPS Postavaru Crag
45.544203 N
25.528603 E
Go by car from "Brasov" on the national road DN73 following signs for "Pitesti". Cross through the town of "Rasnov" and several hundred meters after you exit the town, follow the secondary road DN73A towards "Bucharest", via "Paraul Rece". After a few kilometers, you'll see see signs to "Cheile Rasnoavei". Follow this country road until you reach a barrier.
Take care because this country road has several junctions and you must keep the main part. Before the barrier there is a small parking place where you can park your car (total driving time 45 minutes). Continue on the country road that leads you into "Cheile Rasnoavei" (total walking time 10 minutes). Keep walking on this road and you'll see the "Bolovanul Prostului" sector on your left, which is part of the "Cheile Rasnoavei" climbing area (total walking time 15 minutes). Go further and after several hundred meters you will notice an inclined clearing on your left (total walking time 25 minutes). Follow the trail up the slope to your left and you'll reach "Sector D" (total walking time 35 minutes).
How to get here
Sarlaac
Sectors
Area map
 
Sector D
Access: This is the first sector you'll reach as you go uphill along the right variation of the access trail.
Character: The big face on which the character varies from cracks, pockets to friction climbing.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Sector D - Nicidecum
1 Nicidecum
  18m 8a+
  Technical face climbing.
2 Wolfgang
  22m 6b+
  Beautiful line along a dihedral. Shares the lower-off with "Nicidecum".
3 Nu Pot sa Cred
  24m 7c+?
  Project.
4 Apophis
  32m 8b?
  Project.
5 Thanassis
  32m 7a?
  Project.
Sector D - Centre
Sector D - Apophis
6 Chrysogonos
  30m 8a+?
  Project.
7 Sarlaac
  15m 6b
  The grade is also considered to be a soft 6b+. Easy start up to the hole. Continue by laybacking traverse to the right and then climb the crack to the lower-off (crux just before the top).
8 Death Star
  15m 8b?
  Project.
9 Blockstart
  15m 8b+?
  Project.
10 Control
  22m 7c+?
  Project.
11 Chewbacca
  20m 6c+
  First moves on sharp one finger pockets. Use your feet to avoid finger injuries! Continue then in laybacking along the obvious crack upwards and to the right.
12 R2D2
  18m 7a+
   
13 Superbia
  50m 8b?
  Project. The first pitch is estimated at 7c+ and the second one at 8b.
14
Cald si Bine
12m 5a
 
  Face climbing. Recommended for beginners. Take care because the lower-off is a screw-gate carabiner.
15 Greedo
  33m 7b+
   
16 Bountyhunter
  22m 7a
   
Sector D - Right
17 Bradut
  25m 6b
  Start on a small crack with sharp edges and then continue up the face with balance moves.
18 Braveheart
  25m 7a+
  Hard first moves, then continue on the line of "Bradut".
19
Tentatia
16m 5c
 
  Long reaches on edged on the face to the left of dihedral. Crux just before the lower-off. You are not allowed to make use of the dihedral.
Climbing in Sector D
Bradut
20 Extensor
  16m 7c
  The grade is also considered to be a hard 7b+. Climb the face right to the dihedral.
21
Diedrul
15m 5a
 
  The crux just after the entrance. Balance climbing to the top. Take care at the loose rock before the lower-off.
22 Burtica
  14m 6a+
  This is a variation of "Diedrul" with a harder move on the overhanging entry to the right.
 
Sector D Superior
Access: From the "Sector D", continue walking up the debris slope. In less than 100m, you'll see the "Sector E (Amfiteatrul)" on your left. The "Sector D Superior" routes are placed on the pillar to the left of the "Sector E (Amfiteatrul)". To reach the routes on the South face of the "Sector D Superior" you need to climb the ascending ledge from the big tree.
Character: Long and beautiful routes, with varying moves and stunning panoramic views of the "Rasnoavei" valley. The roof in the upper part of the wall provides a spectacular finish to the routes that go over it.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs. There are placed bolts on the ledge for belayer's to hang.
Sector D Superior - South
1 Rest in Pain!
  25m 6c+
  The grade is also considered to be a soft 7a. Technical climbing upwards the face.
2 Fa Pasi!
  25m 7a+?
  Project.
Sector D Superior - North
3 Natural Aggressivity
  25m 6c
  Start on the crack line. In the upper part you climb the roof directly.
4 The Flames of the End
  25m 8b?
  Project. Shares the entry with "Natural Aggressivity".
5 Edge of Sanity
  25m 7b+?
  Climb the roof on the upper section through its right side.
6
Appetite for Suffering
27m 6b+
 
  Awkward moves on the entrance dihedral. Climb up the face on big holds and then continue on balance moves. Spectacular finish on a steep section, but on big holds. Take care at the loose rock just before the lower-off.
7 Creasta Vantului
  16m 6a+
  Technical and varied climbing. You need intuition to find the right moves.
8 Batranu
  17m 6b+
   
9 Jucaria Suprema
  16m 6c
   
10 The Burning Darkness
  17m 7b+
   
11 Macchiavellic Symphony
  27m 5c
   
 
Sector E (Amfiteatrul)
Access: From the "Sector D", continue walking up the debris slope. In less than 100m you'll reach the "Sector E (Amfiteatrul)" on your left.
Character: Varied climbing. Face climbing on cracks and slightly overhanging dihedrals.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts. Chain lower-offs.
Sector E (Amfiteatrul)
1 Turnul de Fildes
  22m 6b+?
  Project.
2 Romulus
  20m 6b
   
3 Castor
  18m 6c+
   
4 Pollux
  18m 7c
   
5 Remus
  17m 7b+
   
6 Anaerobic for Charismatics
  16m ?
   
7 Cumpana
  14m 6b
   
8 Cyclop
  14m 8b?
  Project.
 
Sector E Superior (Totalitar Wall)
Access: From the "Sector D", continue walking up the debris slope. In less than 100m you'll see "Sector E (Amfiteatrul)" on your left. Climb the gully from the left side of the "Sector E (Amfiteatrul)" and you'll reach the base of the "Sector E Superior (Totalitar Wall)".
Character: Long routes. Face and crack climbing with lots of overhanging sections.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Sector E Superior (Totalitar Wall)
1 Psihasm
  18m 8b?
  Project.
2 Enter Lord Abyssolous
  20m 8a+?
  Project.
3 Cascadadepiatra
  22m 8b?
  Project.
4 Strecuratoarea
  16m 7c+?
  Project.
5 The Time is Now!
  18m 7a+?
  Project.
6 Totalitar
  30m 7c?
  Project.
7 Supremist
  23m 7c+?
  Project.
8 Absolutist
  22m 8a?
  Project.
9 Monodeus
  22m 7a+?
  Project. Enjoy the one finger pocket which inspired the climb name.
 
Sector F (Peretele Lirei)
Access: To reach this sector you have to climb the gully directly below its base or you can climb down on the ledge that is East of the base of "Sector E Superior (Totalitar Wall)".
Character: Long routes where your endurance will be tested.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts with chain lower-offs.
Sector F (Peretele Lirei)
1 Lira
  30m 6c+
  Very beautiful route. Layback on the right branch of the crack which looks like a lyre. The rounded margins of the crack make out of this route a real endurance test.
2 Dark Ways
  25m 7c+?
  Project.
3 Stardust
  25m 7b+?
  Project.
Autumn
 
Sector C
Character: Smooth face climbing. Most of the routes are unclimbed projects and require more cleaning. Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Sector C
1 Gudron
  27m 7c?
  Project. Needs more cleaning.
2 Catran
  27m 7c?
  Project. Needs more cleaning.
3 Bitum
  26m 7c?
  Project. Needs more cleaning.
4 Nicotina
  25m 6c+
   
 
Sector B (Turnuletul)
Character: The routes in this sector are placed on a small pillar with the base shaded by trees. Routes are easy to medium difficulty and good for warming-up. Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts with chain lower-offs.
1 Second Hand
  24m 6b+
  Face climbing on edges in the first part. The upper section is on big holds.
2 Blue Water
  16m 6b+
  Crux in the lower section. Finish with crack climbing.
3 Liviu
  18m 5c
  Crack climbing. Just before the lower-off traverse to the right.
4 Mitza
  18m 6c+
  The grade is also considered to be a soft 7a.
5 Degetarul
  20m 8a?
  Project. There is a chipped hand-hold in the first crux.
Sector B (Turnuletul)
 
Sector A - Peretele Aboland
Access: From the "Sector D", go West by following the path under the wall. You'll pass through the "Sector C" and then the "Sector B (Turnuletul)". When the path steepens you'll find yourself in the heart of the "Sector A - Peretele Aboland". To reach the base of the routes on the left side of this wall, you must climb the vegetation covered gully.
Character: Long and sustained routes. Face climbing with lots of overhanging sections. Most of the routes are projects.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
1 Magnus Dei
  18m 8a+?
  Project.
2 Mars Imperial
  22m 7a+
   
3 Calea Fortei
  25m 7b+
   
4 Titanium
  50m 7c+?
  Project.
5 Absolution
  35m 8b?
  Project.
6 Valhalla
  25m 7c+?
  Project.
7 Psihodrama
  25m 7b+?
  Project.
8 Mizantropia
  25m 7a?
  Project.
9 Dust in the Wind
  50m 8b?
  Project.
10 1 Decembrie
  50m 8a+?
  Project. Two pitches. Intermediary anchor for abseiling.
11 1 Decembrie - Varianta
  27m 7b+?
  Project. In the lower part, avoid the hard section by its right.
12 Dejavoodoo
  28m 8b+?
  Project.
Sector A - Peretele Aboland
13 Skylifter
  60m 8a?
  This route has three pitches. There are intermediary anchors for abseiling. The first part is rated at 7c+. The last two parts are still projects, estimated at 8a.
14 Gradiator
  16m 8b+?
  Project.
15 Gradiation
  25m 7c?
  Project.
16 Bitum Jacuzzi
  32m 7c+?
  Project.
17 Deify Thy Master
  32m 8a+?
  Project.
18 Piroman
  17m 8b+?
  Project.
19 Seniorul Apocalipsei
  30m 8b+?
  Project.
20 Stop Digging
  17m 6c+
  The grade is also considered to be a soft 7a.
21 Equilibrium
  60m 6c+
   
22 Old School
  37m 6b+
   
23 Spaimele Galbene
  30m 6b+
   
24 Seasons in the Abyss
  32m 7c+?
  Project.
 
Sector A - Peretele Tancului
Access: From the base of the "Sector A - Peretele Aboland" climb NE on the gully covered with vegetation. In the upper part of the gully, you'll see the "Sector A - Peretele Tancului" on your right.
Character: Face climbing along some obvious cracks.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts. Chain lower-offs.
Sector A - Peretele Tancului
1 Iridium
  16m 7a+
  Start upward and left. In the upper part climb along the crack with rounded edges.
2 Christine Williamson
  16m 6b+
  Start following the small dihedral upward and right, then continue up the face on its central part.
3 Reinforcement
  18m 6c+
  Same entry as "Christine Williamson". Continue then upward and right using layback climbing technique.
Sunset
 
Sector A - Peretele Portalului
Access: From the base of the "Sector A - Peretele Aboland" climb NE on the gully covered with vegetation. In less than 10 minutes you'll see the "Sector A - Peretele Portalului" on your right.
Character: Long and sustained routes. Face climbing.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts. Chain lower-offs.
1 Diabolus in Vidfernia
  35m 7a?
  Project. Start from the left side of the arcade and then continue upward and left.
2 Total Terror
  35m 7b+?
  Project. Face climbing in the first part. Continue over the consecutive bulges in the upper part.
3 Everlasting Terror
  35m 7c?
  Project. Shares the entry with "Total Terror". In the upper section continue on the left branch.
4 Nickel
  25m 7b+
  Start on the slabby face. In the second part, avoid the overhang through its left.
5 Cadmium
  25m 6a+
  Shares the lower section with "Nickel". In the upper part continue on the right branch.
Sector A - Peretele Portalului
 
Sector A - Peretele Poligonul Suspendat
Access: From the base of the "Sector A - Peretele Aboland" climb NE on the gully covered with vegetation. In less than 10 minutes you'll see the "Sector A - Peretele Portalului" on your right. Don't go up the debris slope, but traverse it left and then continue on the ledge through a narrow fracture until you'll reach the base of the "Sector A - Peretele Poligonul Suspendat".
Character: Long and sustained routes. Beautiful face climbing.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts. Chain lower-offs. Bolting is in progress for a new route on the right side.
1 Cu Moartea pre Moarte Calcand...
  23m 6c+
  Fantastic climbing on big pockets.
2 Click Dreapta
  25m 6b
  The route shares the first part with "Cu Moartea pre Moarte Calcand..." and then it goes towards right.
3 Kinetic Cibernetic
  32m 7c?
  Project.
2 Karmic Abisalyzer
  32m 7b+?
  Project. Shares the top with "Kinetic Cibernetic".
3 Fearification
  28m 7a?
  Project. Shares the start with "Karmic Abisalizer".
Poligonul Suspendat Sector
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