This crag is located in the "Piatra Mare" massif, in the "Chiva" valley.
There are two sectors of limestone rock: the main sector has several long routes featuring face climbing,
while the second sector, shaded by trees has a few short overhanging routes.
You can sleep in the small cave behind the pillar which hosts the routes.
The river running through the valley provides you with fresh water.
The routes have not been climbed much and require more cleaning.
Bolting: Rusted expansion bolts. Linked expansion bolts with screw-gate carabiners as lower-offs.
Sun: The main sector is South facing and in the sun all day long.
The second sector is shaded by trees.
Rain: On rainy days, the main sector becomes easily wet but dries quickly.
The second sector takes longer to dry after long periods of rains.
Seasons: You can climb here from spring to autumn.
Climbing in the main sector can be a problem during hot summer days.
The cave
Orientation
GPS Dambul Morii 45.594751 N
25.637019 E
GPS Chiva Crag 45.583424 N
25.654799 E
Go by car from "Brasov" on the national road DN1 in the direction of "Bucharest".
Several kilometres after the exit from "Brasov", on the left side of the road you will see the "Dambul Morii" chalet.
Turn left on the small bridge crossing the "Timis" river and then immediately turn right
in the small asphalted parking place (total driving time 15 minutes).
From the parking place walk along the road to "Piatra Mare" massif.
Just before crossing the "Daschia" river where you see a few tourist trails
signs, take the non-asphalted road towards left (total walking time 5 minutes).
Continue on this road until you pass the last guesthouses on your left side and you reach a crossroad.
Take the road to the right, crossing the river on a small bridge (total walking time 10 minutes).
Walk on the road along the river to your left until you reach a clearing and another road fork (total walking time 25 minutes).
Follow the road to the left. After a few hundred meters, before the road ends, up the slope in the forest,
on your left side you can glimpse the crag (total walking time 30 minutes).
Climb the steep slope and you reach the base of the pillar (total walking time 35 minutes).
How to get here
Climbing at "Faleza Mare"
Sectors
Climbing the roof
"Faleza Mare" sector
Access: The routes start from the ledge on the Southern face of the pillar.
To reach the base of the routes, climb the easy 4m section in the East end of the pillar.
Character: In this sector there are several long and beautiful routes.
Mostly face climbing with a short overhanging section in the middle.
Face climbing. Long move when you avoid the overhang by its left side.
5
Berbecul
25m
6b
Start up the slabby face on edges. Difficult layback exit over the lip of the overhang.
Finish on big holds.
6
Varsatorul
25m
6a+
Easy start followed by balance moves on slopers.
Go over the bulge upwards and right.
Then continue with technical moves on big holds upward and slightly to the left to the lower-off.
"La Umbra" sector
Character: A few short, bouldery routes.
Bolting: Rusted expansion bolts and pitons. Linked expansion bolts lower-offs.
"La Umbra" sector
Belaying
1
Sagetatorul
15m
7a
Route with mixed protection pieces: expansion bolts and pitons.
