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Rock climbing - Piatra Mare Tamina
 
Tamina
Town: Brasov
Massif: Piatra Mare
5 % 50 % 45 % 0 % 60 m S 60 min
* * * * * * * * * * No Yes Rating
70 sport climbing routes  
 
Area character
The "Tamina" waterfall, located in the "Piatra Mare" massif, is one of the newest climbing areas of Romania: the first climb was completed in 2006. The canyon of the "Tamina" river splits the area in two distinct parts. You can go through the canyon without any special equipment on the pre-laid ladders. There is a nice green camping area just before you descend to the first sector - "Cascada" - and the water from the Tamina river is safe to drink. It is a 45 minute walk uphill to the "Tamina" waterfall from the barrier at the bottom (near the road from "Timisul de Sus"). The limestone rock is mostly face climbing with short overhanging sections. The routes are long and sustained and will amaze you with their variety and beauty.
Bolting: The bolting is according to international standards with stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs on all of the routes.
Sun: Being sheltered by the trees, the base of the crag is in the shade all day long, making this area one of the best to climb in hot weather. The routes that emerge above the tree line are exposed to the sun all day.
Rain: After light rain you can climb on many overhang routes or those sheltered by the trees. Most routes dry quickly after rain.
Seasons: You can climb here from early spring until late autumn. This is the perfect place to climb on hot summer days.
Landscape
 
Orientation
GPS Parking Tamina
45.538960 N
25.588506 E 		GPS Tamina Crag
45.533622 N
25.610620 E
Drive from "Brasov" on the national road DN1 towards "Bucharest". After several kilometres you'll reach "Timisul de Sus". Drive past the "Timisul de Sus" railway station for about 500m. Just before the national road makes a large turn to right, on the left you will see a dirt road blocked by a barrier and a tourist sign with directions the "Tamina" waterfall.
Park the car in the small parking place before the barrier (total driving time 25 minutes). From here you have 2 options: you can take an easy but longer walk on the forest road (total walking time 1 hour) or you can follow the marked trail uphill through the forest (blue stripe) which is steep but shorter (total walking time 45 minutes). As you exit the forest take left and walk 100m until you see a sign post on your right. After a small steep descent you'll reach the first climbing routes from the "Cascada" sector (total walking time 50 minutes). Continue descending until you reach the river. Cross the river and follow the path to the right. The path will curve to the left and here you have a steep uphill climb through the forest until you see the "Faleza Mare" sector (walking time 60 minutes).
Hoe to get here
More than a Feeling
Sectors
 
Cascada Sector
Access: The routes are bolted along the base of the right side of the "Tamina" canyon. As you descend to the river, you will see a small path and boulder on your right. Descend down to the right and you will see the "La Messe" and "Prolog" routes.
Character: Short routes with hard moves, except for "Fata din Vis" which demands superior endurance.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
La Messe
4 Like a Virgin
  10m 8a
  The route goes up the left contour of a small recess formed by two successive overhanging sections. Two hard moves with no rest between.
5 Ma Fleur
  13m 8b+
  The route starts two meters right from "Like a Virgin". The climb goes over the two successive small overhangs by their centre. Shares the lower-off with "Like a Virgin".
6 Feed My Imagination
  14m 8c?
  Project. The route starts just right of "Ma Fleur" which has the same top.
7 Dancer in the Dark
  16m 8b+
  Superb climb which goes up the two successive overhangs by their right margins.
8 Fight Club
  16m 8b
  Steep climb on small holds.
9 Michelangello
  18m 7c
  Technical on small holds. In the upper part continue along the left side of the arcade, then continue on pockets and finally big holds to the top.
10 Sunday Walk
  15m 7b+
  Technical balance moves in the lower part. Continue over the arcade and then to the top on big holds.
11 Hot Shots
  15m 7c+
  Technical climbing on small holds on the face just right to the arcade (without using the arcade). Shares the lower-off with "Sunday Walk".
12 Veverita Polara
  16m 7b+
  One meter right to the "Hot Shots". Technical face climbing. In the upper part avoid the edge by its left, then continue on big holds to the top.
13 Fat Boy Slim
  11m 6a
  Pocketed face climbing. After several technical moves you have a long reach (crux). Big holds towards the finish. The top is just above the small platform on the top of the pillar.
Fat Boy Slim
1 La Messe
  8m 8a+
  Climb along the crack line on the left end of the boulder. Long moves.
2 Prolog
  8m 8b+?
  Project. A bit to the right of "La Messe". From the fourth bolt up, those routes share the same top.
3 La Promesse
  8m 8a+
  This route is a link of "La Messe" and "Prolog" routes.
Bolting at "Tamina"
Ma Fleur
14 Dirty Dancing
  10m 5c
  Hard start followed by easy slab face climbing. Recommended as warm-up.
15
Caprioara Caprioasa
10m 5c
 
  Awkward start on sharp holds, then continues on the slab face to the lower-off under the overhang above. Take care in the upper part which is easy, but has some loose rock.
16 La Casse Couille
  10m 5c
   
17 Fata din Vis
  30m 7c
  Long and sustained route. Climb upward and diagonally left on the steep face on the right end of the pillar who guards the "Tamina" waterfall on its right geographical side.
Fata din Vis
 
Faleza Mare Sector
Access: To reach this sector you need to descend from "Cascada" to the river. Cross the river and follow the path to the right. The path will curve to the left and here you have a steep uphill climb through the forest until you see the "Faleza Mare" sector (total walking time 10 minutes).
Character: Long and sustained routes which feature face, crack or overhang climbing. Sections are exposed to the sun all day long, but most routes are in shaded and a real pleasure to climb.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts with chain lower-offs.
1 Bavaria
  30m 7a+
  Passing through the tunnel from the left end of the wall, you will see an impressive overhanging dihedral. This is the line of "Bavaria" route. Technical start on face climbing. Continue then using layback technique along the rounded margins of the dihedral upward and right and then up the face to the lower-off.
2 Floare de Colt
  30m 7c
  The climb starts just right from "Bavaria". After the steep entry face (crux), continue on the beautiful technical face to the top. It shares the lower-off with "Bavaria".
3 Galeti
  30m 7a+
  Technical start on good pockets, the follows the crux (long reach). The second half wanders on big holds to the top.
4 Onedin
  23m 7b
  Located just before the tunnel on the right side of the wall. Beautifull face climbing. Shares the lower-off with "Galeti".
Faleza Mare - Bavaria
9 Rictus
  30m 7b+
  Long and sustained route. Technical face climbing on small holds.
10 Le Project Diabolique
  50m 8b?
  Project. Fantastic sustained climbing up to a 50m line which goes right from "Rictus" route, just before its lower-off.
11 Nexit
  30m 7c
  Steep and sustained face climbing, but don't worry, there are some rest places where you can shake your arms. Excellent rock quality.
12 More than a Donut
  40m 8a
  Start on the pillar with the dihedral, then continue up the face on balance moves. After passing a steep section, enjoy sustained and technical climbing to the top.
13 Charon
  30m 6c+
  Climb the entry pillar and then traverse right through the small cave. Good hand holds. After a long reach slightly to the left (crux), go upward and right on easy terrain until there are no more holds in the upright direction. Traverse left to the base of an obvious crack (crux). From here climb straight upward. Another long move and you are at the anchor.
5 Martin Stricklant
  35m 7b+
  The line goes on the face above the tunnel in the right side of the sector. Steep climbing in the upper section.
6 L'Amour a Distance
  22m 6b
  This is the first route right of the tunnel. Start with balance moves on a vertical face then continue with long moves on pockets and jugs. Just before the top, traverse right to the lower-off.
7 Opriti Masina!
  37m 8a+?
  Project. This is an extension of "L'Amour a Distance". Starts with hard moves on the face just after the intermediate chain. The finish is easy terrain.
8
Fisura Dreapta
30m 6b
 
  This is the first route which was bolted in "Tamina" (author Titus Gontea, 2007). Start with delicate climbing on the face and then continue up the bulgy section. Here you have to take care on the loose rock! After a good rest place climb the fantastic straight crack. Your imagination is stretched to the limit using the most varied techniques: layback, foot-jams or friction climbing. The end of the crack is the end of the route.
Faleza Mare - Charon
14 Charon - Extension
  48m 8a+?
  Project. Extension of "Charon". Sustained.
15 Charognare
  30m 7b
  Difficult start. The upper section is common with "Charon".
16 Mica Sirena
  22m 7b+
  Sharp edge climbing in lower section (crux), then sustained climbing on the second half.
17 Silence is Easy
  28m 6b+
  Technical balance at the start on a small pillar but with a huge ledge as a rest place. Continue up the slab face which necessitates a good foot technique until you reach a small ledge - another rest place. The final steep section is on big holds, but you need some endurance to reach the lower-off.
18 Comptine d'une autre Ete
  10m 5a
  Warm-up route. Climb the crack on the right to the top.
19 L'Amour Total
  15m 7b
  The line goes along the crack upward and right.
20 Satanasie Computerizata
  32m 8a
  Sustained crack climbing followed by more sustained face climbing.
The cave
"Pocket Symphony" crux
Comptine d'une Autre Ete
21 Acum Cand ?
  15m 7a+
  Start on crimpy holds, then continue on balance moves on the slabby face. Follow the crack upward and right (crux) to reach the lower-off.
22 Imediat !
  37m 8a
  Project. Extension of "Acum Cand ?".
23 Burning Legion
  15m 7c+
  Start from the left end of the cave. The lower-off is just below the visible diagonal crack.
24 Burning Legion - Extension
  32m 8a
  Continuation for another 17m of "Burning Legion". Sustained route (linked hard moves).
25 Mon Ami
  11m 8a
  Short, but steep and technical climb. The name of the route is painted at its base. For shorter climbers the grade might be higher.
26 Use Your Illusions
  17m 8b
  Lower part is a powerfull 8b and the finish is 8a slab face climbing.
27 Use Your Illusions - Extension
  32m 8b+
  The grade is also considered to be a hard 8b. Extension on the face above with another 15m of "Use Your Illusions".
28 C'est Quand le Bonheur
  18m 8b+?
  Project. Start directly from the cave, then gain the face and finish in the anchor of the lower part of "Use Your Illusions".
29 Vulgar Display of Power
  18m 8b+?
  Project. Start from the central part of the cave, then goes up the face. The name is painted at the base of the route.
30 Disco
  21m 8c+?
  Project. Shares the lower-off with "Vulgar Display of Power".
31 Cowboys from Hell
  28m 7c
  Start up the overhanging section then continue with sustained face climbing.
32 Martyria
  28m 7b+
  Overhanging start. Then follows technical climbing on the face. Long and sustained.
33 Stalingrad
  28m 7c+
  Crimpy holds at the start, then face climbing on small holds. Two hard sequences: first a power move, then a technical one.
Pocket Symphony
34 Hot Fingers
  20m 8a+
  Starts just left of "Cold Fingers" which shares the upper part.
35 Cold Fingers
  20m 7c+
  Steep face climbing which starts from the right end of the cave. Long and sustained.
36 Jumi-Juma
  20m 7b
  Start from where the rock is yellow at the base. Climb upwards and left. The route has only one hard move, between the third and fourth bolt. The upper section goes up the lower-off on big holds.
37 Pocket Symphony
  14m 6c+
  Start on balance moves then continue with long moves on two or three finger pockets (hence the name of the route). The crux is a long reach from a big hole. One last technical move and you reach the lower-off.
38 Poison
  20m 7a+
  Steep face climbing in lower section. The crux is a technical sequence on small edges and slopers. The upper section leads you on long moves to the lower-off.
39 More than a Feeling
  20m 6b
  Very beautiful climb on big holds with technical moves.
40
Easy Go
12m 5c
 
  Start on a mushroom covered section, then bridge up an open dihedral.
41
Gossip
12m 5b
 
  Entry on a loose rock section, then climb up the crack. To reach the lower-off you must traverse slightly right.
42 Ratatouille
  12m 6b
  Technical face climbing on small holds.
Climbing "Pocket Symphony"
 
El Comandante Sector
Character: In this sector there are several very beautiful aerial routes, but many require more cleaning. After long period of rains there are water infiltrations. Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Racnet Fioros
1 Racnet Fioros
  30m 7a+?
  The route is on the face between the cave and "El Comandante" route. Sustained route with friction climbing on big hand-holds.
2 El Comandante
  20m 6c
  Start on the vertical face and then climb along the crack. The climb steepens in the final section.
3 Trompetica
  20m 6a
  Very beautiful and varied route for its grade. Start by laying back along the crack upward and right, then exit on a large ledge (rest place). The final section is steep climbing on the face with a long move just before the lower-off.
4 For My Night
  22m 6b
  Big holds in the lower section, then you'll reach to a rest place. The crux consists of a technical sequence just before the lower-off.
5 KA-X
  23m 6c
  Same character as "For My Night", but harder.
6 Jean Vs the Doppler Effect
  23m 7a
  Climb above the edge line, then exit left on the face. Shares the lower-off with "KA-X".
El Comandante
Power moves
 
Neghini Style Sector
Access: From the base of "El Comandante" sector, continue walking up toward the slope at the base of the wall. On your left side you'll see the two boulders from "Neghini Style" sector.
Character: Short and overhanging routes but bouldery.
Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Neghini Style
Johnny Bravo
1 Phill Collins
  6m 7c+
  The route is located in the left end of first boulder. Short and overhanging route on one finger pockets.
2 Neghinistyle
  6m 8b?
  Project. Start with balance moves, then steep face climbing.
3 Expresso
  5m 7c
  Steep face climbing in the right end of first boulder.
4 Johnny Bravo
  5m 7c
  The left route on the second boulder. The climb starts from the base of a crack. Go upwards and slightly left, then traverse right to reach the lower-off.
5 XXL
  5m 8b?
  Project. Start on pocketed face, then climb the overhanging sector to the same lower-off as "Johnny Bravo".
Study
 
Canton Sector
Access: Go along the dirt road until you'll see on your right a chalet. Just behind the chalet there is big boulder with two routes.
Character: Short routes with power moves.
Bolting: Expansion bolts.
1 Dragoste Crispata
  10m 7a
  Powerful route (you need strong biceps) on big holds.
2 Biceps Delirant
  10m 7c+?
  Proiect. Beautiful line with one powerful move at halfway through the route. You can use the tree above as anchor.
 
Secret Spot Sector
Access: Go along the dirt road until you'll reach the river. Continue upstream the river to a big boulder on your right. Climb the slope to your left for about 50m and you'll reach the sector.
Character: One bouldery route.
Bolting: Expansion bolts.
1 Ode to the Species
  10m 8b+?
  Project. Could be harder than 8b+. Bouldery start and then technical face climbiung on a beautiful line.
         
     
   
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