This beautiful crag is one of the oldest and most well-known in the nearby area of "Brasov" town.
Here you'll find sport climbing or alpine routes, as well as dry-tooling lines.
The limestone rosk hosts a great diversity of features from compact faces, cracks and chimneys to impressive overhangs.
The routes are long and most of them have two pitches.
You can camp nearby in a tent or bivouac in one of the two caves.
Bolting: Re-bolting of this area is still in progress. A lot of alpine routes formerly on pitons
were reequipped with stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
The new climbing routes have been bolted with stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs,
but the old ones still have rusty bolts.
Sun: The crag is Southern facing and is in the sun all day long,
but the alpine climate makes the heat suitable for climbing.
Rain: On rainy days the slab faces become wet quickly and not recommended for climbing in such conditions.
After long period of rains the wall gets dry quickly because of the winds.
Seasons: You can climb here during all four seasons, as long as the sun shines.
Prapastia Ursului - Landscape
Orientation
GPS Dambul Morii 45.594751 N
25.637019 E
GPS Prap. Ursului 45.567799 N
25.647683 E
Go by car from "Brasov" on the national road DN in the direction of "Bucharest".
Several kilometers after the exit from "Brasov", on the left side of the road you will see
the "Dambul Morii" chalet. Turn left on the small bridge crossing the "Timis" river and then immediately turn right
in the small asphalted parking place, where you can park your car (total driving time 15 minutes).
From the parking place walk along the road towards
"Piatra Mare" on the tourist trail marked with yellow stripe
which goes through the "Sapte Scari" canyon.
Just before the canyon, you will see on your left side an abandoned wooden house
(total walking time 40 minutes).
Immediately after this abandoned wooden house, but before entering the canyon, you need to go left and cross the river
onto the small bridge. Continue on the gentle slope on this marked trail which leads to the "Piatra Mare" chalet and peak
through "Prapastia Ursului".
Just after the trail turns left, the slope gets steeper.
Climb this short section uphill until you reach the base of "Prapasitia Ursului", an impressive wall
by its height (total walking time 55 minutes).
Cum ajungem aici
Descent
Dry tooling
Sectors
Grota Sector
Character: Here you can find several sport climbing and three dry-tooling routes.
Bolting: Recently equipped routes on stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Grota Sector
1
Puiul de Dihor
15m
6a+
It has two difficult traverses to the right.
2
Trei Crengute
18m
5b
Face climbing with balance moves and long reaches.
3
Puiul de Drac
12m
6b
Start on a loose section then continue on pockets.
The crux is a long reach at half-height of the route.
4
Cu Mainile in Buzunare
12m
5a
It shares the start and the lower-off with "Puiul de Drac". Slabby face.
5
Master Yoda
18m
6b+
The lines go upwards and right. Technical start on an overhanging section (crux).
The second crux is just before the lower-off.
6
Man in Black
8m
M8+
Dry-tooling route. Overhanging start, then face climbing.
7
Apocaliptica
40m
M8
Dry-tooling. Slightly easier that the route in its left.
8
Mini Crux
40m
M5+
The most accessible dry-tooling route from this sector.
9
The Headless Climber
20m
6b
Crux at the end of the crack.
The route continues with long moves on big edges and then a balance traverse to the right.
10
KB2
20m
?
Too many chipped holds on this route.
"La Izvor" Sector
Character: Long and sustained routes with varied climbing on compact faces and dihedrals.
Bolting: Recently equipped routes are on stainless steel expansion bolts with chain lower-offs.
The older sport routes have rusty expansion bolts and the alpine ones have pitons.
"Scoala" and "Cupa ICIM" routes
1
Scoala
33m
6a+
The crux in the lower section, at the entrance on the face. Then you have a rest place on a comfortable ledge.
Continue up the face to the top on edges.
2
Paranoid Eyes
23m
6b
The crux is in the middle section. Cross then to the right on one finger pocket and a good sidepull.
3
Necromancer
23m
7c?
The crux is in the upper section. Rest place just before the crux.
4
Cupa ICIM
35m
6b+
Balance climbing in the lower part on successive ledges.
The crux is in the middle section and consists in a long reach.
In the upper part continue bridging up the dihedral to the top.
5
Crusader
18m
7c+?
First crux at the exit from the lower dihedral (long reach to a sidepull).
Second crux just before the top.
6
Fisura de la Izvor
2LC
3B
Alpine route.
The crack from the spring
7
Gazodrom
40m
6c+?
First expansion bolts are painted with red. Face climbing on slopers.
8
Creasta de la Izvor
20m
?
Project. Bolting in progress.
The spring
Hornul Crenelat Sector
Character: On the left there are alpine routes. The ones on the right are
recently bolted for sport climbing.
Bolting: The new sport climbing routes are equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts.
The alpine ones have pitons.
Fisurile Gemene
1
Long Way
50m
7c?
Project. Climb the line to the left of "Fisurile Gemene".
2
Fisurile Gemene
2LC
4A
Alpine route which can be free-climbed. Two pitches.
3
Fisurile Gemene - Varianta
2LC
4A
The variation on the crack to the right of "Fisurile Gemene".
4
Raluca
2LC
3B
5
Roland
2LC
3B
6
Hornul Crenelat
2LC
2B
Interesting free climbing on the chimney. Not bolted. Enjoy the tunnel at the exit of the route!
7
Cucuta
12m
6b+
Short, but intense route.
8
Matraguna
15m
7a+?
This route has been equipped for a climbing contest.
Hornul Crenelat
The entrance in "Plansete Agonice" route
9
Ciumafaia
?
7a+
10
Plansete Agonice
30m
7b
Overhanging start continued by airy face climbing.
11
Rasete Sardonice
16m
7a+
Steep face climbing with long moves.
Creasta Frumoasa Sector
Character: Great diversity: faces, cracks and chimneys. Long routes which demand good endurance.
Bolting: Most routes in this sector have been rebolted with stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Re-bolting is still in progress.
Creasta Frumoasa
"Creasta Frumoasa" - The crux
"Creasta Frumoasa" - Finish
1
Iepurele
55m
5c
First piece of protection is at 4m height, then pitons with ring on a crack line upwards and left.
Shares the last section with the route from its right.
2
Vulpea
55m
6a+
The entrance is a bit to the left of the entry in "Creasta Frumoasa" (inox expansion bolts).
Face climbing in the upper part.
3
Creasta Frumoasa
55m
5c
Beautiful slabby face climbing. Suitable for beginners.
4
Puiul de Urs
2LC
7b?
The overhang from the right of "Creasta Frumoasa".
5
Hornul Inghetat
2LC
3B
The chimney easy to spot to the right of "Creasta Frumoasa".
Surplomba - Left
12
Finala Concurs
17m
7b+
Former contest route. Re-bolted.
13
Paianjenul
20m
7c+?
Overhanging route with powerful moves.
14
Spectru
20m
8b?
Project.
15
Fantoma
20m
7a
16
Triunghi Albastru
20m
7c
17
Any Means Necessary
20m
6a+
Chimney climbing.
18
Mic si Rau
25m
6b+
Start on sharp holds and then continue up the chimney which leads to the lower-off.
6
Lupul
20m
6b+
Friction face climbing with long moves.
7
Hornul Frumos
2LC
3A
Another alpine route recommended for beginners. The crux is at the bulge in the middle section.
8
Cerbul
25m
7a
9
Zaftul Suprem
26m
?
Project.
10
Traseul cu Bavareza
25m
6c
Easy start on slabby face. Climb the bulge above (crux) and then continue to the left
along the crack line. The lower-off is on the face just above the crack.
11
Coltul de Urs
23m
7c?
Surplomba - Right
19
Noaghiic
25m
6c+
There are two hard moves in this route: a long reach and a technical sequence.
20
Semifinale Baieti
25m
7b+
21
Diedrul Suspendat
22m
6b
Start on the crack with sharp holds and then continue upwards and left on the face above.
22
Diedrul Suspendat - Extension
37m
?
Extension of "Diedrul Suspendat". Bolting in progress.
23
Semifinale Fete
25m
7a
24
Tavanul Triunghiular
50m
7c?
The entrance overlaps to the entrance in the former alpine route "Tisei",
along an awkward chimney followed by face climbing.
The bolting of the upper part of the route is still in progress.
Peretele Mare Sector
Character: Long routes on cracks and suspended chimneys.
Bolting: The new sport climbing routes are equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
The alpine ones have pitons.
"Hornul Inchis" route
1
Generatia de Plastic
50m
8b?
Start from the small tree from the base of a chimney. The route line is not drawn on foto-topo.
The section until the intermediate anchor has the proposed grade 7c and the second section is estimated at 8b.
2
Hornul Inchis
50m
6b+
Recently reequipped with expansion bolts. The route has two sections.
In the lower one climb along the dihedral (stemming) and in the upper one climb
along the wide chimney which is blocked by an overhang.
3
Adi Fulga
3LC
5B
Start from the left of the small pillar and then continue up the crack upwards and left.
4
Milenei
3LC
5A
Start on a loose crack. The rock quality gets better as we climb up the wall.
