"Belvedere" crag is located between "Predeal" and "Paraul Rece", in the vicinity of the "Belvedere" chalet.
You can easily reach the chalet by car and a 15 minutes walk from the chalet will take you to the base of the crag.
The rock is solid limestone, with wall height between 10 and 60 meters.
The left sector is sheltered by trees and ideal for climbing during summer days.
The central and left sectors are much higher and directly exposed to the sun.
Bolting: Most of the routes are equipped with glued bolts and expansion bolts.
The old protection hardware has been replaced, but there are routes where you can still find
rusted bolts or old pitons. Re-bolting is still in progress.
Sun: The sun shines on the wall at noon, so you can climb in the sunlight until sunset.
The crag has SW exposure.
Rain: When it rains the wall gets wet, making climbing conditions much harder.
After long rainy periods, the left sector dries slowly because it is shaded by trees.
Seasons: You can climb here in excellent conditions starting early in the spring until late autumn.
Its location near the "Bucegi" mountains makes it a comfortable place to climb even during hot summer days.
Climbing on "Cyborg"
Orientation
GPS Chalet 45.503841 N
25.507081 E
GPS Crag 45.505213 N
25.502174 E
To reach the "Belvedere" crag, start from "Brasov" on the national road DN1 driving in the direction of "Bucharest".
Drive until you reach the beautiful town of "Predeal" and continue through the centre.
Just after the exit from "Predeal", turn right towards the "Paraul Rece" resort, on the secondary road DN73A.
Before entering "Paraul Rece" turn left on the country road that leads to "Belvedere" chalet.
Park the car in front of the chalet (total driving time 45 minutes).
From the parking place, go up the slope behind the chalet on the easy to spot trail until you cross a country road
(total walking time 5 minutes).
Continue on this road to the right for 200m until you see a small trail which goes slightly to your left.
Walk on this trail following the ridge line. Just before the trail steepens, you will see a clear path descending
to the left into the forest total walking time 10 minutes).
Continue on this trail which turns right and then start ascending until you reach the base of the crag (total walking time 15 minutes).
How to get here
Climbing on "Koko Jumbo"
Sectors
"Bucegi" massif
"In Padure" sector
Character: The routes in this sector range from 5c to 8a+ grades.
The lines are short and mostly face climbing on pockets and edges.
After rainy days there are water infiltrations that dry slowly.
Bolting: Modern equipped routes with glued bolts and chain lower-offs.
"In Padure" sector - Left
1
Ice Age
7m
?
Project. Face climbing on pockets. Unbolted yet.
2
Fulg de Nea
8m
6c
Short face climbing on pockets.
3
I Don't Know
9m
7b+
Face climbing.
4
Game Over
10m
8a
Technical face climbing on pockets.
5
Fa
10m
6c
Face climbing on sharp cracks.
6
Sol
10m
6b
Start on a pocketed section. Continue on discontinuous small cracks to the lower-off.
"In Padure" sector - Right
7
Paranoia Virginului Ionizat
8m
7c
Face climbing on edges. The cracks on the left and right are not allowed, otherwise the route is easier.
8
Diculescu
15m
6b
Climb on sidepulls. The crux is just before the top, after you reach the ledge.
9
Minimum
15m
8a+
A hard bouldery move in the middle section.
In the upper part, a good two finger pocket makes the route less difficult.
10
Iesati Pulanilor
12m
7b+
Face climbing on small holds.
11
Bebe
12m
7a+
Long reaches on pockets and inclined edges.
12
Traseul Scoala
12m
6a
The easiest route from "In Padure" sector.
Start on the vertical face on vertical hand-holds and then cross to the right to reach the lower-off.
"Faleza Mare" sector
Character: This sector has the most beautiful climbs from this crag.
The routes are very diverse, from vertical faces with good holds to cracks and bulges.
Most of the routes are long and sustained and some lines have extensions.
Bolting: The routes on the left are equipped with glued bolts.
The ones of the central area are on new expansion bolts.
The routes on the right side are on rusty expansion bolts and pitons. Re-bolting here is still in progress.
Chain lower-offs.
1
Vasilica
18m
6a+
The route is situated in the left end of the sector. Start on a slabby face and then continue
on pockets and sidepulls until you reach a ledge (rest spot).
Avoid the overhang by its left side and then continue upward and right the slabby face the lower-off.
2
Koko Jumbo
25m
6b+
Same character as the route on its left, but the moves are a bit harder.
3
Nimat
12m
6c
Long reaches on good pockets.
4
Super Nimat
25m
6c+
Extension over the upper bulge of "Nimat".
5
Noroc!
25m
8a
Slightly overhanging route with six successive dead-point moves.
6
Nirvana
22m
8a
Shares the first part with "Noroc!".
Balance moves in the upper part.
7
Clasic
37m
5b+
Beautiful climb with constant moves along a large crack.
From the suspended cave continue upwards and right to the lower-off.
There is an extension which continues avoiding the overhang through its left.
8
Rateu
37m
7c
Shares the lower section with "Clasic". Belay station on the ledge.
Climb directly the overhang and finish in the same lower-off as "Clasic".
Faleza Mare - Left
16
Cyborg (Ciporcu)
15m
7a+
Face climbing on edges, then long reaches on one or two finger pockets (crux),
continue up the face. Shares the lower-off with "Nea Lica".
17
Neuron!
15m
7c+
Face climbing on one or two finger pockets.
18
Neuron! - Extension
30m
?
Start from the top of "Neuron!".
19
Tancul Retezat
20m
5c
Start upward and left on big holds. Long reach move and then rest place on a ledge.
Continue climbing the dihedral from your left.
The protection pieces are spaced but the terrain is easy.
The route ends on the small platform on the top of the pillar to your left.
20
Tancul Retezat - Extension
35m
?
Project.
Faleza Mare - Right
30
Super Anaconda
35m
7a+
"Anaconda" extension.
31
Marele Bachus
42m
7a+
Fantastic sustained climb. Face and corner climbing on edges.
32
Dream Team
20m
?
Project.
33
Bestia
18m
7b+
Sustained face climbing.
34
Super Bestia
30m
7c+
Extension of "Bestia" route.
9
Rateu - Varianta 1
37m
?
Project. This is a variation 1 meter right of the upper section of "Rateu" route.
10
Rateu - Varianta 2
37m
?
Project. The right most variation of the upper section of "Rateu".
11
Baieti de Baieti
20m
6c+
Start climbing the face on edges, then go up the sharp crack.
After several easy moves you reach a resting place on a ledge.
Last section is on long reaches on pockets.
12
No Job No Problem
20m
7a
The first hard move is just above the ground, then continue on pockets.
The upper section is a hard one on shallow pockets, then a balance traverse to the left.
Shares the lower-off with "Clasic".
13
Nea Caisa
20m
5c
Climb on a wide crack with big ledges and sidepulls.
Start upward and left and then continue up the vertical crack.
When the crack ends, you have to traverse to the right (crux).
The rest of the route is on big edges with a few long reaches.
14
Dilem
17m
8b?
Project. Extension of "Nea Caisa" route.
15
Nea Lica
20m
6a
Face climbing with balance moves on edges in first section, then go upward and right along the good pockets.
One long reach (crux) and you reach the comfortable ledge (rest place).
The rest of the route has easy moves on big edges upward and left, sharing the lower-off with "Nea Caisa".
Faleza Mare - Center
21
Bring da Noise
30m
7c+
Sustained face climbing on pockets. Crux in the middle part.
22
Fete de Fete
20m
6c+
Steep pocketed face climbing.
23
King Size
15m
7c+
Extension of "Fete de Fete". Just before the crux there is rest place.
24
Overdose
30m
8a
Start on the face then continue on the same line as "Intact" along a dihedral.
Continue on a difficult face. Crux on pockets just before the lower-off.
25
Junky Size
17m
8a
This is a connection of "King Size" and "Overdose" routes. There is no drawing in the photo-topo.
26
Intact
18m
6b+
Technical face climbing followed by an awkward crack and then a chimney.
27
Nobody's Perfect
18m
7b+
Project.
28
Equinox (Simgen)
18m
?
Project.
29
Anaconda
20m
8b+?
An old project which features technical face climbing.
Faleza Mare - Right - Side view
35
Poptan
10m
7c+
The route starts from the top of "Bestia". Climb upward the face to the right of "Super Bestia".
36
Libelula
30m
8b?
Project.
37
Gandacul
20m
6b+
More face climbing.
38
Gargarita
18m
?
Face climbing again. Situated just above the small cave from the right end.
Project. Not represented in the photo-topo.
"La Bolovan" sector
Access: This is the first sector you'll reach coming from the "Belvedere" chalet,
located at the East part of the wall, at the upper end of the small debris area.
Character: Short routes. Face climbing.
Bolting: Glued bolts.
La Bolovan
1
Popeye
6m
?
2
Have a nice day
8m
7a+
Face climbing on pockets and edges. The line goes upward and to the left.
