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Rock climbing - Bran Magura

Magura

Town: Zarnesti

Massif: P. Craiului


50 %	40 %	10 %	0 %	50 m	S	30 min

*** * ***	*** * ***	*** * ***	*	No	Yes	Rating

12 sport climbing routes

Area character

This crag is located in a very picturesque area, above "Magura" village. There are two sectors here. At the "Faleza Mica" sector, located in a saddle, there are several short and easy routes, mostly on slab face. The "Faleza Mare" sector is still being developed phase. The rock is limestone, featuring mostly face climbing.

	Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts with chain lower-offs. Most of the routes have been equipped during a course on how to bolt sport climbing routes.
	Sun: By its exposure towards South and its position, the crag is exposed to the sun from morning until evening.
	Rain: On rainy days the crag gets wet easily, but dries quickly due to the winds.
	Seasons: The best time to climb here is from spring until autumn. It is not possible to climb here in winter time.

The crag seen from "Magura" village

Traditional house

Orientation

	GPS Gura Raului 45.547207 N 25.301324 E	GPS Magura Crag 45.524954 N 25.311924 E
To reach the crag from "Magura", go by car from "Brasov" on the national road DN73 in the direction of "Pitesti". Continue until you reach "Rasnov". Just after the center of "Rasnov", turn right on the secondary road DN73A which leads you to the town of "Zarnesti". After you enter "Zarnesti" continue straight ahead (take care because DN73A turns right) until you reach the old town center. Cross the town heading SW until you reach the "Gura Raului" chalet. Continue driving on the country road along the river to your left. After you pass an old quarry you'll reach the "Botorog" spring.

Just after the "Botorog" spring the road forks. Follow the road to the left, by crossing the river. Continue driving until you reach "Magura" village. Park the car in the small parking place, just before the church (total driving time 60 minutes). From here walk along the country road which descents in a gentle slope. On your left on the top of the hill you'll see the crag. When you reach a hairpin turn to the right where the road forks (total walking time 10 minutes), follow the road to the left, along a beautiful valley until you see the last house (total walking time 15 minutes). Just before reaching the last house, go upward and left on a trail which zigzags up the hill. Take care because you'll have to leave the marked path to the left, passing a small spring before reaching "Faleza Mare" (total walking time 30 minutes).

How to get here

Sectors

Faleza Mare Sector
Character: Face climbing which steepens on the upper part.	Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts. Bolting is still in progress for some of the routes.

Faleza Mare

Fisura
20m	6a?

Start on an inclined crack. Piton at the crack end. There is no other protection, but you can make use of nuts or friends to protect the crack.

...

20m

Start on the crack line. In the upper part continue climbing upward the ridge.

Grota

20m

6c+

Start from the small cave. Crux just above the crack, then climb a crack continued by a chimney.

King of the Mountain

20m

8b?

Project. Equipped by Nicolas Ecoffet. Start in the left of a wing. In the upper part the route steepens. Climb up the tufa then a crack.

Les Branleurs de l'Ecran
20m	?

Project. Bolting in progress (Nicolas Ecoffet). There are only two bolts in the upper section. Start on slabby face followed by steep climbing towards the finish.

I Love You

20m

8a+?

Project. Estimated at 8a+/8b. The route is located 10m right of the "Les Branleurs de l'Ecran". Not represented in photo-topo. Climb directly the roof in the lower section.

Faleza Mica Sector

Access: You reach "Faleza Mica" by going round the left of "Faleza Mare" until you reach a saddle. On your right side you'll see "Faleza Mica".

Character: Short and intermediate routes on vertical or slab face.

Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts. Chain lower-offs.

Faleza Mica

1	Carul Mare
	10m	6b?
	Steep start. Continue on the crack to the lower-off.
2	Carul Mic
	10m	6a+?
	Shares the start with the route on its left. Continue then upwards and right and then traverse left to reach the lower-off.
3	Sirius
	8m	6b?
	Start on steep face. Continue upwards and right on a slab face.
4	Orion
	9m	6c?
	Slab face on edges.

Vega

6b?

Same character as the route from its left on a more fragmented rock.

Uranus
10m	5a?

There is a small boulder at the start. Slab face. The lower-off consists of two unlinked expansion bolts. You can descend by walking on the other side to the left.