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Rock climbing - Zarnesti Prapastii
 
Prapastii
Town: Zarnesti
Massif: P. Craiului
10 % 60 % 20 % 10 % 60 m Gorge 10 min
* * * * * * * * * Yes Yes Rating
74 sport climbing routes 6 alpine climbing or dry-tooling routes
 
Area character
Exiting from the town of "Zarnesti" by its SW end, you'll reach "Prapastiile Zarnestilor" in no more then 30 minutes. The gorges are 6km long and guarded by impressive walls of limestone offering mainly vertical face climbing routes. Ite is very easy to get here by car or on foot. You can camp overnight in "Prapastiile Zarnestilor", or if you preffer a little more comfort you can enquire at one of the chalets or guest houses in "Zarnesti". The most accessible fresh water spring is "Fantana lui Botorog".
Bolting: Bolting is varied due to the size of the crag. The alpine routes are usually on pitons and the sport climbing ones are equipped with expansion bolts (newer or older). The lower-offs are also very diverse: pitons and expansion bolts, linked or not.
Sun: The gorge provides shaded sectors all day long.
Rain: During rainy periods you can still climb in the "La Refugiu" sector which is sheltered by an impressive overhanging wall. After long periods of rain we recommend to wait until the water infiltrations dry on some of the routes.
Seasons: You can climb here from early spring until late autumn and you can find both sahded and sunny routes. We don't recommend climbing here during winter because of water infiltrations.
Landscape from "Praprastiile Zarnestilor"
 
Orientation
GPS Gura Raului
45.547207 N
25.301324 E 		GPS Prapastii
45.523058 N
25.273550 E
To reach "Prapastiile Zarnestilor" go by car from "Brasov" on the national road DN73 in the direction of "Pitesti". When you reach the town of "Rasnov", just after the centre, turn right on the secondary road DN73A which leads you to the town of "Zarnesti". Corss straight through "Zarnesti"
(take care because the road DN73A turns right) until you reach the old town centre. Cross the old town centre in a SW direction until you reach the "Gura Raului" chalet. Continue on the country road along the river. You'll pass an old limestone quarry and then the "Fantana lui Botorog" spring. Go straight ahead on the road until you see a barrier. 100 m before that barrier you'll find a small parking place where you can park your car (total driving time 60 minutes). From here continue walking on the road that enters the "Prapastiiel Zarnestilor" gorge (total walking time 10 minutes).
How to get here
Sectors
Geology
Topo
Bike stop
 
Tancul Umbrit Sector
Access: 200m after you pass the barrier, on your right you'll see the "Tancul Umbrit" sector where there are two routes that are rarely climbed.
Character: Steep face climbing.
Bolting: Old expansion bolts. Unlinked bolts lower-offs.
Tancul Umbrit
1 Miorita
  18m 6c?
  Steep face climbing upwards and left.
2 Ciobanasul
  18m 6c?
  Starts just right of the previous route. Same character.
Fauna
 
Arcada Sector
Character: This sector has a few routes graded between 6b+ and 8b. The routes are long and mostly on a vertical face. After long periods of rain there are water infiltrations that dry slowly. Bolting: Old and new expansion bolts. Linked or chain lower-offs. The alpine routes are equipped with pitons.
1 Arcadei
  22m 6b+
  Sustained vertical route with successive moves on chipped edges. Start with a few long and balance moves, then continue on a technical vertical section. The final section before the lower-off is easy terrain.
2 Falcon
  17m 6c+
  The first section is the most difficult one (chipped holds). Hard to read the sequence. Continue on vertical face climbing on sidepulls. Shares the lower-off with "Arcadei".
Arcada - Left
10 23 August
  3LC 4B
  Alpine route. Start just right the cave. Cross the ledge above then climb the rounded dihedral.
11 Micron
  20m 6c
  The route is on the wall on the opposite side of the river. Crux in the middle section.
12 Super Glue
  15m 8b?
  Project. Friction climb as the name suggests.
3
Clopotul
30m 4B
 
  Alpine route. Starts from the bell like cave and goes straight up the face. Take care at belays and descent because the route has not been maintained.
4 Comet
  25m 7c
  Start on a steep section on big holds. Long reach upwards and left, then climb in layback along a tufa. Last section on slopers. Sustained.
5 Meteor
  37m 8b
  This is s difficult 8b. Some say that this is an 8b+. You need a higher endurance to link the moves which are not so hard if you take them one by one. After the first sustained section there is resting place, then the difficulty rises progressively. Slightly overhanging with crimps, side-pulls and underclings.
6 Miercuri 30
  32m ?
  Project. First route above the cave. Direct climb up the smooth face.
7 Biografia unei Idei Periculoase
  38m ?
  Project. Start from the central part of the ledge, above the cave. Climb successively over two overhanging sections, then go straight up the face.
8 Marilena
  3LC 5A
  Alpine route. Starts from the ledge, just right of "Miercuri 30". Avoid first overhang then climb directly the second one. Continue then upwards and right.
9 Surplomba
  8m 7c?
  Project. The line goes along the blackened cave lip, upwards and right.
Micron
 
Hercules Sector
Access: From the "Arcadei" sector continue on the road upstream. In less than 100m you'll see the roof of the "Hercules" sector on your right.
Character: Hard routes on an impressive roof.
Bolting: Expansion bolts. Linked expansion bolts lower-offs.
Hercules Sector
1 Gladiator
  17m ?
  Project. Located in the left and of the sector.
2 Zoolander
  15m 8a
  This is a difficult 8a. Some climbers say that it's an 8a+. Overhanging climb on pockets.
3 Pitiu
  13m 7a
  The crux is just before the top from a good undercling to a good sloper.
4 Italy (Trans Sexual)
  12m 7c+
  Start just right from the small bulge. Overhanging climb.
5 Visu' lu' Tataie
  12m 7c+
  Shares the lower-off with the route on its left.
6 Crux
  17m 7c+
  Sustained climbing on first section, then face climbing.
7 Hugh
  17m 7c
  Starts just right of "Crux". Climb the small roof, then continue up the face to the lower-off.
8 Hercules
  20m 7a
  Start from the left end of the face under the big roof. Climb upwards and left, then go over the roof to the right.
9 Highlander
  17m 7c
  Fantastic roof climb. Even though the holds are not big, they are good. To exit over the roof lip, you need to do an acrobatic move.
10
Secera
15m 6b?
 
  Dry-tooling route located on the wall on the opposite side of "Highlander".
11
Ciocanul
15m 6b?
 
  Another dry-tooling route.
The two dry-tooling routes
 
Ze Diud Sector
Character: Steep face routes. Even though they are quite popular, the rock is loose on places. Bolting: Expansion bolts. Unlinked expansion bolts lower-offs.
1
Storkatoru' Bulgaresc
15m 6b
 
  Start with long moves. Take care of loose rock! Continue along the crack upward and right and then on small knobs (crux) until the cave under the lower-off. One final move and you reach the top.
2
Ze Diud
15m 7a
 
  Steep face climbing on small holds.
3
Ordef
20m 7a+
 
  Steep face climbing continued by an overhanging crack.
4 Cucu' lu' Vasile
  20m 7a
  Start on loose rock close to the ridge on the right side of the pillar. Overhanging crack in the upper section.
Ze Diud Sector
 
Grota Sector
Character: Technical face climbing. Bolting: Expansion bolts. Linked expansion bolts lower-offs.
Grota Sector
1 Bruno
  15m 6b
  Climb upwards and left on sidepulls, some of them hard to spot. Continue on slopers (crux) then go on top of a good ledge. One more technical move on sidepulls and you reach the top.
2 Gruia
  15m 6a+
  Start with bridging on big holds. Continue on sidepulls and underclings with technical moves (crux). One more move after the ledge and you reach the lower-off.
3 Gusatu
  17m 6a
  Face climbing and then continue on a large crack. Go upwards and left under the overhang above. Shares thze finish with "Gruia".
 
Vinteanul Sector
Access: The routes are on the suspended wall on your left side, just before you reach the refuge. To reach the base, you must climb a small face (8m height) to the ledge (there is one expansion bolt in place). The other option is to climb the gully on the left side of the wall.
Character: Varied routes: alpine or sport climbing ones. The short climbs are intense and the long ones require a good endurance.
Bolting: Expansion bolts and pitons.
Vinteanul Sector
The gorge
1 Alizeul
  30m ?
  Alpine route.
2 Tornado
  10m 7c+
  Short face climbing. Goes along the yellow colored rock.
3 Taifun
  30m 7a+
  Sustained face climbing, just right of "Tornado".
4 Huricane
  30m 7a+
  Starts just right of its twin brother, "Taifun". The twin brother of "Taifun", situated to its immediately right side.
5 Orcan
  15m 6c+
  Face climbing on edges whose line goes a bit to the left of the easy to spot crack.
6 Briza
  20m 5b
  Alpine route up the obvious crack from the central part of the wall.
7 Mistral
  15m 6b+
  Short climb along a discontinuous line of small cracks.
8 Bora
  15m 5c
  Just right of "Mistral". Easy route, suitable for warm-up. The two routes share the lower-off.
 
La Refugiu Sector
Character: Long, steep and sustained climbs. On rainy days this sector usually remains dry. Bolting: Expansion bolts. Some of the lower-offs have linked expansion bolts. There are still poorly equipped lower-offs.
1
Fly
25m 6c+
 
  Power moves in the first part. Take care of the loose rock! Continue on the face above on edges with long moves until you reach a ledge (rest place). Avoid the steep section on the left of the route and go upwards and right to the lower-off.
2 Ecou
  25m 6c
  Steep climb on big holds to a comfortable ledge. Continue on the face above on edges and pockets. Long reach before getting on a ledge (rest place). Traverse slightly to the left (crux) and then climb upwards to the same lower-off as "Fly".
3 Diagonal
  25m 5c
  Mixed protection pieces: pitons and expansion bolts. The route goes along a system of ledges upwards and right. In the final section go up towards the suspended recess. This is a classic climb by the variety of moves.
4 Afumatura
  25m 6a+
  One of the warm-up routes from this sector. Start from the smoked cave with a steep face on big jugs, then continue with balance moves. Climb the easy dihedral upwards and left to reach the top.
5 Muchie
  20m 6c+
  Climb the easy lower section that has no protection. Continue on pockets and then on small holds (crux) to the lower-off.
6 Marianelor
  30m 6b
  Shares the first part with "Muchie". Continue up the dihedral above. Mixed protection: expansion bolts and pitons. The crux is a traverse to the left, just before the lower-off.
7 Gurita
  3LC 5A
  Alpine route. After the easy lower section you reach a ledge where the hard part starts. Climb the steep face upwards and right.
8 Vrabia
  15m ?
  Project. Starts from the first intermediate belay of "Gurita".
9 Randunica
  20m 7a+
  Steep face climbing.
10 Wild Cat
  20m 6c+
  Easy lower section. Second part is face climbing on edges.
La Refugiu Sector
11 Vrajitoarea din Prapastii
  20m 6c+
  Very beautiful route which is prolonged by two extensions. Start on a bulgy face then continue on big jugs to the top. The crux is just before the lower-off.
12 Vrajitoarea - Extension 1
  40m 7a+
  Extension of "Vrajitoarea din Prapastii". Harder than the lower part.
13 Vrajitoarea - Extension 2
  60m 8a+?
  Project. The last and most difficult extension of "Vrajitoarea din Prapastii".
14 Soldatul Necunoscut
  40m 6b+?
  Start from the sandy cave. Continue to the left and then upwards on the face above.
15
Image de Toi
40m 6b+
 
  You need a 80 meters rope, unless you choose to belay the second from the lower-off anchor. Start from the sandy cave in the right part of the wall. Climb the face on big pockets, then traverse right on jugs. Balance climbing up the face above, then long reach (crux). You will reach a good rest place (there is a ring in place for abseiling). Continue climbing upwards on big pockets to the lower-off.
16 Image de Toi - Extension
  60m 7a+
  Extension of "Image de Toi". More sustained face climbing.
17
Hilti Dance
35m 6c+
 
  Face climbing. You need a 70 meters rope.
18 Hilti Dance - Extension
  55m 7a+
  Extension of "Hilti Dance".
19 Schweizer
  20m 6b+
  Pocketed steep face climbing.
20 Schweizer - Extension
  40m 8a+?
  Extension of "Schweizer".
21 Chiti
  10m 7c
  Short steep bouldery climb. It has a variation rated at 8a if you don't pull on some holds.
 
MCM Sector
Character: Several short routes with an overhang start. Bolting: Expansion bolts. Linked expansion bolts lower-offs.
MCM Sector
1 Les Slaubeause
  10m 6a+
  The crux in the middle section consists of a traverse to the left.
2 MCM
  12m 6c+
  Slightly overhanging route on slopers. Sustained finish.
3 Flatone
  10m 6a+
  Overhanging start on big holds. Continue on balance climbing on slopers.
4 Sosetuta
  8m 6a
  Overhanging start on slopers, then continue upwards and right. Go upwards and left on balance moves to reach the lower-off.
 
Pin Pin Sector
Character: Short and varied routes, which features dihedrals and overhanging face climbing. Bolting: Expansion bolts. Linked expansion bolts lower-offs.
1 Escrava Isaura
  13m 7a+
  Balance face climbing on a face which steepens in the final section.
2 Marimar
  13m 6b+
  Stemming up a wide dihedral.
3 Pascu
  2LC 6a+
  Alpine route. Steep start, then climb the large dihedral.
4 Happy Biceps To You
  13m 7c
  Overhanging start, then face climbing on power moves.
5 Gepetto
  13m 7a+
  Steep climb on edges and pockets. Shares the lower off with "Happy Biceps to You".
6 Pin Pin
  12m 7a+
  The overhang on slopers. Finish on the face on edges and sidepulls.
7 Foca
  12m 6a+
  Steep start, then face climbing. Take care because the bolts are a bit spaced!
Pin Pin Sector
 
Manitu Sector
Character: Very beautiful routes, long and sustained placed on the impressive vertical face on the right side as you go upstream on the country road. Bolting: Expansion bolts. Linked expansion bolts lower-offs.
Sector Manitu - View from upstream
Sector Manitu - View from downstream
1 Andropause
  13m 7b?
  Very rare climbed route. Climbing on edges and slopers.
2 Menopause
  20m 7b?
  This has not been climbed for a while. Start from a rock recess from river bed. Go upward and left. Sustained overhanging climbing on edges and slopers. Shares the lower-off with "Andropause".
3
Manitu
23m 6b+
 
  The line starts on the easy to spot pillar which emerges from the river bed. First protection piece is a bit too high. Climb in stemming technique on the dihedral above, then go upwards on the face. The crux is a long reach from a chipped hold, Continue up the face to the lower-off.
4 Coyote
  20m 8a
  Long and sustained route which starts from the vegetation covered ledge. Face climbing on slopers.
5 Sirius
  25m 6b+
  Starts just right of "Coyote". Technical face climbing on edges and sidepulls.
Sector Manitu - Ghost Dog
6 Ghost Dog
  13m 7a
  The route is located on a small wall, on your right side as you go upstream from "Manitu". Start from the river bed. Face climbing on edges.
7 New Beginning
  15m 6a
  Start a bit left of "Ghost Dog". Go upwards and left under the overhang to the same lower-off as "Ghost Dog".
8 Rodeo
  15m 6c+
  Balance face climbing on small edges. Chipped holds. The crux is just before the lower-off.
Sector Manitu - Rodeo
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