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Rock climbing - Brasov Pietrele lui Solomon
 
Solomon
Town: Brasov
Massif: Postavaru
0 % 75 % 25 % 0 % 60 m Gorge 1 min
* * * * * * * * * * No Yes Rating
66 sport climbing routes  
 
Area highlights
"Pietrele lui Solomon" area, located at the outskirts of "Brasov" town, is one of the preferred places for those who are in search of a pleasant place to spend their weekend. In summer time you can climb in the shade and early in the spring or late in the autumn you can find sunny climbs. There is a small river flowing through the "Pietrele lui Solomon" area and lots of springs that make it an ideal camping area. You can reach to "Pietrele lui Solomon" in no more than 45 minutes of walking from the center of "Brasov", or 15 minutes by car. The rock is a good quality limestone, the climbing featuring mostly vertical or overhanging faces. If you don't have a climbing partner, you can boulder at "Traverseu" sector.
Bolting: Most of the routes have been rebolted with stainless steel expansion bolts (during summer 2008 by Titus Gontea). You can find old hardware on some sport routes and in the alpine ones there is a mix of expansion bolts and pitons.
Sun: By the nature of the landscape (gorge) you can climb in shade during the summer or in the sun early in the spring or late autumn.
Rain: You can still climb at "Traverseu" sector in rainy days. After long rainy periods you might need to wait for the infiltrations to dry for some of the routes.
Seasons: You can climb here starting from early spring until late autumn and you can find routes in shade or exposed to sun, as you wish. We don't recommend climbing here during winter, because of the water infiltrations.
Titus Gontea in the final section of "Borcanul"
 
Orientation
GPS Piata Sfatului
45.642191 N
25.588982 E 		GPS Solomon
45.619978 N
25.558415 E
To reach "Pietrele lui Solomon" start driving the car from "Piata Sfatului", the heart of the medieval "Brasov". Head to "Piata Unirii" along "Baritiu" street towards SW. From "Piata Unirii" continue on "Capitan Ilie Birt" street,
and then on "Vasile Saftu" street until you reach "Piata Prundului". Continue on "Pe Tocile" street and then "Invatatorilor" street until you reach a country road. Drive along the river (heading SW) on the non-asphalted road to a big parking place where you must park the car (total drive time 10 minutes). From here, follow the road that takes you to "Pietrele lui Solomon" (total walking time 1 minute).
How to get here
"Borcanul" route
Sectors
"Rechinul" route
 
Cariera Sector
Character: The routes in this sector range from 5c to 7b+. Mostly face climbing, excepting a few routes with short overhanging sections. Bolting: Routes equipped with expansion bolts. Chain lower-offs.
Cariera Sector
1
Darius
15m 6a+
 
  Start upward and left on a loose rock section and then continue upward on the face. Balance moves in the middle and upper sections, then you reach the lower-off. You have the option to continue on climbing until you reach the lower-off from "Fritz" route.
2 Diedrul
  15m 5c+
  This is a beautiful line along a crack followed by a small dihedral. Bridging will help you a lot in the second part of the route. Same lower-off as "Darius". You can continue climbing to the lower-off from "Fritz".
3
Fritz
22m 6b
 
  Easy start followed by a steep dihedral (crux). Second half consists of balance moves on a vertical face.
4 Fata Gri
  20m 6a+
  Fine vertical face climbing on a grayish rock with excellent adherence. You need good footwork, otherwise your arms will get pumped.
5 Dale
  20m 6c+
  Superb line. The route starts with an impressive overhang which can be climbed by lay backing. Your arms will be pumped when you'll get over this section, but don't worry, you'll find a good rest place on the small ledge just above the overhang. The second section is characterized by technical climbing on a vertical face.
6 The Emperor
  18m 8b?
  Project. This is a variation of the "Darth Vader" entrance. Easy terrain until you reach under the overhang where hard moves start. Technical sequence on small sidepulls which will exhaust your fingers. After this middle section continue on the line of the "Darth Vader" route, or you can continue on the "Dale" route.
7 Darth Vader
  18m 7b+
  Easy start. The crux is in the middle section where you need good balance to traverse upwards and left. The rest of the route is easy climbing.
8 S
  20m 7a
  This line has two cruxes. The first crux, in the lower section, is a long reach to pass over the small overhang. The second one is just below the top with balance moves. Shares the lower-off with "Darth Vader".
9 Rechinul
  20m 6b
  Start with delicate face climbing and then a small overhang (where there is a bulge resembling a shark head). Continue upward the face and then traverse to the right to reach the lower-off.
10 Cariera Clasica
  20m 6a+
  This line is a combination of "Directa Carierei" and "Rechinul" routes.
11 Directa Carierei
  20m 6c
  Sustained moves. There is though a resting place on a ledge after first small overhang. Although there are several chipped holds, the route is a beautiful one. Shares the lower-off with "Rechinul". Without using the chipped holds the difficulty increases to 6c+.
12 Tavanelul
  20m 6b+
  Balance moves in the lower part and then a long reach to pass the first crux (chipped hand-hold). Continue on easy terrain and then climb the small overhang (second crux) just before the top.
13
Dangerous
10m 6b
 
  This route is seldom climbed.
 
Grota Sector
Character: This sector has routes ranging from grade 6a+ to 7a, featuring climbing on a vertical face. Bolting: Expansion bolts, except for the "Intrare Central" route which has also a few pitons.
"Grota" and "Brana" sectors
1 Paianjenul
  10m 6b
  The climb starts along the inclined ledge. The crux move is to get over the small bulge at halfway through the route. The second half is easy face climbing.
2 Intrare Central - Varianta
  10m 6c+
  This is an entrance variation of "Intrare Central" (the route on the right) but much harder.
3 Intrare Central
  10m 6a+
  This line overlaps with the entrance in the "Traseul Central" alpine route. Equipped with pitons. Small hand and foot holds.
4 Grota
  10m 7a
  Short and bouldery route. The crux is just above the small cave. Shares the lower-off with "La Cersit".
5
La Cersit
10m 5a+
 
  Suitable for beginners. Big hand holds in the first half and then balance moves along a slabby face. It dries slowly after rainy days because of the fungus on the rock.
Grota Sector
 
Brana Sector
Character: In this sector you can find routes ranging from 6a+ to 8a grades. The wall is much steeper than it looks like. The rock is of excellent quality limestone. The routes are long and you need to have a superior endurance level to climb here. This is an advanced climbing sector. After long periods of rain you have to wait for some of the routes to dry. Bolting: Most of the routes have been reequipped recently with stainless steel expansion bolts. You may find old hardware and pitons. All the routes are equipped with chain lower-offs.
1 Fight Club
  25m 7c+?
  Project.
2 Nocturnus
  25m 8b?
  Project. Chipped and glued holds.
3 Central
  50m 8b?
  Project.
4 Postumia
  23m 8a
  Two glued holds.
5 Diagonal
  25m 7b+
   
6 Zion
  25m 8b?
  Project.
7 Warm-Up
  17m 6a+
  Start by climbing upward and left from the small cave. The first bolt is a bit too far, but the climb before clipping is easier than it looks like. Then follows face climbing on jugs. The crux is a traverse upwards and left. Last section to the lower-off is easy terrain on big jugs.
8 Semiluna
  25m 7b
  The route starts from the small cave. Steep face climbing on jugs. Then you reach the "semiluna" (chipped hold). Balance move to stand up the lip of the small overhang. Long reaches on the face before the lower-off.
9 Traseul Alveolelor
  26m 7a+
  Beautiful line that goes diagonally right on big slopers. It starts from the left cave, traverses the wall and finishes in the top of "Cascadia" route, on the right end of the sector.
10 Orbita
  24m 7b
  Start on the face just right the small cave with crimpy holds (hardest move on this route). There is a variation a bit to the left (rated with 7a) that avoid this first hard section. You reach then the "orbit" ideal rest place where you can relax in sitting position! Continue upward and left (second hardest move) and then climb the beautiful line upward and right. After passing two consecutive ledges (rest place) you reach the final section, where there is one last hard move before the lower-off.
11 Jump in the Fire
  25m 7c
   
Brana Sector
12 ICIM
  24m 7a
  The route has been equipped for the final of "ICIM" climbing event. Technical moves upward the lower face, followed by consecutives overhanging sections. By its movement variety, this is one of the most beautiful routes in the area. There is a variation that goes straight up below the first suspended cave, rated at 7b.
13 Terapie Intensiva
  25m 7c+
  Project.
14 Borcanul
  25m 7b
  First bolt is a bit to high, but the there are no problems in clipping it. Sustained bridging climbing on big holds. The crux at the half-height is s long reach to a good handle.
15 Cuibul de Cuci
  22m 7a+
  Easy start followed by slightly overhanging face climbing on underclings. Technical face climbing upwards final section.
16 Cascadia
  22m 7a+
   
17
Concurs
18m 7b+?
 
  Route bolted for a climbing contest. Screw attached holds. We don't recommend this route.
18
Creasta Vestica
20m 6a
 
  This line is the entrance in the "Creasta Vestica" alpine route. Start on a slightly overhanging and then you climb the prominent pillar on your right. Just above the pillar there is a piton which can be used as lower-off.
 
Traverseu Sector
Character: During the hot summer days you can climb in this shaded sector sheltered by the trees. If it rains, the overhanging routes allow you to climb short, but crimpy lines. If you don't have a climbing partner, you can practice bouldering by traversing at the base of this sector. Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts with chain lower-offs. You will find though old pitons in place.
Traverseu Sector
1
Traverseu
15m 7c
 
  This traverse is a good practicing alternative for those who love bouldering, during rainy days or whenever you don't have a belay partner. The proposed grade (7c) gives an indication of the overall difficulty of the traverse.
2 Walkiria
  7m 7a
  Beautiful by its simplicity, with clear moves, this route is a reference for the 7a in the area.
3 Sardonis
  8m 8a?
  Project.
4 H
  10m 7a+
  Hard move after the second bolt which consists in holding the crack to your left.
5 Sasece
  10m 6c
  First protection is a piton with ring, then expansion bolts.
6 Static X
  10m 7b
   
7 Sasebe
  10m 6b
  Start with a big hole as hand hold and then continue on crimpy holds on a steep face. The lower-off is on the ledge above, a bit to the left.
 
Merisor Sector
Character: The sector has SW sun exposure and therefore you can climb here from early spring until late autumn. The routes are in the medium difficulty range, mostly face climbing on pockets with short overhanging sections. Bolting: Routes equipped with expansion bolts (stainless steel or older ones, but safe). Chain lower-offs.
1 Extrema Stanga
  15m 7a
  Crimpy holds in the lower half, then balance moves upward the top.
Merisor Sector
2 Pizda Bunicii
  15m 6c
  Good jugs in the lower part, followed by a long reach. Then you'll find a rest place on a ledge. Technical climbing with balance moves on slopers to reach the lower-off.
3 Stairway to Hell
  17m 7a
  This is a hard 7a, some might say it is a 7a+. There are two sections with a resting place in-between. The lower section requires strong fingers and good foot-work. The higher one is on technical balance moves. Shares the same lower-off with "Extrema Stanga" and "Pizda Bunicii".
4 Merisor
  20m 6a+
  This is one of the easiest routes from "Merisor" sector. His name was inspired by the apple tree grown at the base of the rock. After you climb the starting bulge, continue on sidepulls and underclings (crux). From the ledge above till the top of the route there are no difficult moves.
5 Placinta de Mere
  20m 6a+
  The grade is also considered to be a soft 6b. The first part is on good holds, followed by a long reach move (crux). You reach then a ledge that makes a good resting place. Continue along a small crack using layback technique and then straight upward. The top is shared with "Merisor".
6
Surplomba
20m 7a
 
  Start climbing from the cave in the right end of the sector. Bridging and a long reach are required to get over the lip (crux) and then you reach a rest place on a comfortable ledge. Continue upwards on the steep face on fingery holds (crux). You must look carefully to find the best hand and foot placements. The sequence looks harder than it actually is. The lower-off is shared with "Merisor". Take care just before the top where the rock is a bit loose!
 
Sector Hornul Suspendat
Access: Going upstream, just after the waterfall, on your left side you will see a big pillar. From its base, follow the unmarked trail which zigzags to a platform where an obvious chimney starts.
Character: Long and technical routes.
Bolting: Expansion bolts and pitons. There is no proper lower-off, but you can descend from the top of the pillar by following the unmarked trail which takes you over its peak.
1
Hornul Suspendat
25m 5c
 
  This route is recommended for beginners. Even if you are an experienced climber, the route is worthwhile for its beauty (it has the character of a alpine route). The climb starts on a slabby face with big holds. Continue by traversing left to the chimney (crux). Once in the chimney, try not to hide in it!
2
Colorado
25m 6a+
 
  First section is shared with "Hornul Suspendat", then continue straight upwards the bulge (crux). Same lower-off as "Hornul Suspendat".
Climbing on "Tavanelul"
"Hornul Suspendat" Sector
 
Non Stop Sector
Acces: This sector is the first one you'll reach as you follow the road to "Pietrele lui Solomon". Just before the waterfall, on your left side you will see a small pillar that has been blackened at its base. Here there are three routes.
Character: Sustained routes. The people use to build fires at the base of the rock so the first few meters are blackened from smoke. Nevertheless the first two routes from the left side are worthwhile despite this inconvenience.
Bolting: Old but safe expansion bolts. Chain lower-off.
1 Merlot
  15m 7c
   
2 Non Stop
  15m 7a+
  After the first section (which is smoked) there are several exhausting movements on big sidepull slopers. The crux is just before the top where you must traverse to the left and then continue upward the face on small holds.
3
Cabernet
15m 6b+
 
  Technical start. In the upper part traverse go upward and to the left (take care as the rock on your right is loose).
Climbing on "Rechinul"
Non Stop Sector
 
Gruenwald Sector
Access: From the parking place head West, climbing the steep path which zigzags through the pines. In no more than 5 minutes you reach the base of "Gruenwald" sector. The recommended rope length is 70m, but if you don't have such a rope, you can descent on the other side and to the right of the cliff.
Character: Very beautiful routes, long and sustained which have all: face climbing, cracks and dihedrals and overhangs.
Bolting: Old but safe expansion bolts (a bit spaced though). Chain lower-offs.
1 Sarma Ghimpata
  35m 6a+
   
2 Camera de Gazare
  32m 6b
   
3 Marsul Mortii
  30m 6b+
   
4 Plutonul de Executie
  28m 6c+
   
5 Holocaust
  35m 6c
  This is a very beautiful technical route. Start climbing the vegetation covered slab at the base and then go up the face along the crack system until you reach the first overhanging section that you climb directly (crux). Continue along a dihedral that ends in a small overhang (crux). Use the bridging technique to go over this section. Climb the upward face on pockets and then traverse to the right (crux) to reach the lower-off.
6 Arbeit Macht Frei
  35m 6c+
   
Gruenwald Sector
"Tavanelul" - "Cariera" sector
7 Solutia Finala
  35m 7c
   
8 Gruenwald
  35m 6b+
  Technical and sustained climbing on big holds. Fantastic route by its variety of moves.
9 Dr. Mengele
  32m 7a+
  We don't recommend this route.
10 Auschwitz
  35m 6c+
   
11 Dachau
  22m 7a+
   
12 Birkenau
  25m 7c+
   
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