This new crag has been open by Dan Cristolovean in the spring of 2010 with the ocasion of "Piatra Mare Climbing Open" contest.
Most of the routes are steep, with heights between 10 and 30 metres.
The routes character is diverse, featuring face or crack climbing along inspired lines.
You can stay overnight in one of the many chalets from Dambul Morii, or you can camp nearby in a tent,
but take care how you store your food, because the bears shows no shyness.
Bolting: All the routes are safely equipped with expansion bolts and chain lower-offs,
the "friendly bolting" style being inspired by the Kalymnos bolting recommendations.
Sun: Turnul Mare and Turnul Mic are exposed towards East and in the sun during the morning.
Mytos sector is West oriented and the sun is shining on the wall until the evening.
Rain: On rainy days the walls become wet quickly and not recommended for climbing in such conditions.
Seasons: You can climb here from spring to autumn, but the best season is the summer.
Bogdan Rus on Playboy, 7c
Orientation
GPS Dambul Morii 45.594751 N
25.637019 E
GPS Piatra Mare 45.558713 N
25.649053 E
Go by car from "Brasov" on the national road DN in the direction of "Bucharest".
Several kilometres after the exit from "Brasov", on the left side of the road you will see
the "Dambul Morii" chalet. Turn left on the small bridge crossing the "Timis" river and then immediately turn right
in the small asphalted parking place, where you can park your car (total driving time 15 minutes).
From the parking place walk along the road
towards "Piatra Mare" on the tourist trail marked with yellow stripe
which goes through the "Sapte Scari" canyon (40 min).
The bridges from "Sapte Scari" canyon are not so safe, therefore we recommend the trail which
goes around the canyon (marked with red point).
After passing the canyon, continue on the marked trail until the slope steepens (70 min).
You will see on the left side of the trail two towers (the first one characterized by a rock fall in which
the limestone has a yellowish colour). To avoid the unpleasant debris, follow the trail until
you reach the second tower, and then climb to your left the steep slope until you reach the crag (90 min).
How to get here
Adrian Zdrobis on Pheonix
Sectors
Climbing at Turnul Mare Sector
Turnul Mare Sector
Character: Several beautiful lines along rounded-edge cracks. Bolting: Recently equipped routes with expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Turnul Mare Sector
1
Tutorial
12m
5c
Short but nice climbing. A good route for beginners.
2
Devil's Rendez-Vous
18m
7a
Fun climb. Rest just before the crux.
3
Bodishava
18m
7a+
Technical. Don't be fooled by its look, it's not a classic crack!
4
Silver Bullet
17m
8b+?
Crazy moves on a steep pocketed wall.
The route has two crux moves: at the start and towards its finish.
Doru Baies on Territorial Affair, 6c
5
Mantra
17m
6c
One of the most beautiful routes from this crag. At the finish make sure that you don't go right,
but continue straight upwards.
6
Territorial Affair
16m
6c
Intimidating look, but no so hard. Crux after a no-hands rest.
7
Menage a Trois
12m
6b
Easy start and finish. Shares the lower-off with "Territorial Affair".
Constantin Gabor on Bodishava, 7a+
Mytos Sector
Character: Mainly face climbing, but you'll find also a nice dihedral. Bolting: Recently equipped routes with expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Mytos Sector
1
Spiridusul
12m
6a+
Bouldering start, nice for the grade.
2
Aspida
23m
7a
Face climbing with beautiful moves. Crux before the top.
3
Vasiliscul
22m
6b
Dihedral with crack, steep at the end.
Bogdan Rus on Pheonix, 7a
4
Dansul Ielelor
22m
7c?
Two overhanging sections combined with face and dihedral climbing.
5
Zana Maseluta
16m
8a+?
Technical moves on tiny hand-holds along a steep face.
6
Pheonix
14m
7a
Very popular route. A true power-endurance test on a steep face.
Ientzy on Pheonix, 7a
Turnul Mic Sector
Character: Long routes on a steep wall. Sharp-edged cracks and fantastic face climbing. Bolting: Recently bolted with expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Turnul Mic - Left
1
Boys Will Be Boys
25m
6b+
Technical climb on surprisingly good holds.
2
Hogwart's Express
26m
6a
This route has everything! Steep and pocketed wall along a crack and delicate moves towards the end.
3
Clear Water
14m
7a
Interesting crack climbing.
4
Nosferatu
20m
7a+
Steep and demanding climb on big holds. Not so easy to read the sequence.
Bogdan Rus on Playboy, 7c
Turnul Mic - Right
5
Playboy
25m
7c
Megaroute on a steep face. The route has two cruxes: one at the beginning and one towards its end.
6
Bestiolla
25m
6c
Long and sustained route with no real crux.
7
Peacekeeper
22m
7a
Bouldery start. Crux at half-height.
8
Peacemaker
21m
6a
Shares the start with Peacekeeper. Beautiful moves in the upper part.
