This area covers several small crags around the chalet from "Stana Regala" in "Sinaia".
The rock is limestone. The routes are relatively short, featuring vertical face climbing with small overhangs.
Some crags are on the outskirt of the forest and sheltered from direct sunlight.
You can sleep overnight at the chalet in "Poiana Stanii" or camp with a tent
(make sure that you inform the chalet administrator before as the land is private).
You can find running water at the spring approximately 5 minutes from
the chalet, on the marked trail from "Sinaia".
Bolting: The routes are equipped with expansion bolts. Linked expansion bolts as lower-offs.
This is a very popular training area as the bolting is excellent.
Sun: Climbing here in summer can be a real pleasure as the crags are shaded by trees.
Even on the hottest days you can feel the cool mountain breeze.
Rain: If it doesn't rain too much you can still climb here as the routes are sheltered by trees and dry quickly.
Climbing here after heavy rain is not possible.
Seasons: Summer is the ideal season for climbing, but you can climb here
on sunny spring or autumn days. Because of the alpine climate from the "Bucegi" mountains,
the temperatures here are generally mild.
"Caraimanul" seen from "Poiana Stanii"
The chalet from "Poiana Stanii"
Orientation
GPS Peles Castle 45.355883 N
25.548617 E
GPS Poiana Stanii 45.368422 N
25.523639 E
Go by car from "Brasov" on the national road DN1 in the direction of "Bucharest".
Drive through "Predeal" and "Busteni" until you reach "Sinaia"
(total driving time 60 minutes).
Go through "Sinaia" town centre and turn right on the road that leads you to the "Peles" castle.
From "Peles" castle continue on the asphalted road towards "Cota 1400".
After you exit the residential area, you'll see a sign for
"Poiana Stanii" on the right side of the road (total driving time 75 minutes).
Follow this sign on the country road. Pass the forks to "Sfanta Ana" and "Cota 1400" (just keep right).
Continue on the same road until you reach the small parking place from "Poiana Stanii"
(total driving time 90 minutes).
From the parking place you can see the "La Cabana" climbing sector (total walking time 1 minute).
How to get here
Action
Climbing at "Poiana Stanii"
Sectors
The Jack
La Cabana Sector
Character: The routes here are relatively short. Face climbing with overhanging sections.
Start with steep face climbing then reach an awkward ledge.
Continue in the second part on slopers.
Chidi gura ! A!
5
Mini
7m
5c
Short route with bouldery entry and balance moves on slopers.
In the upper part continue upwards and right to the lower-off.
6
Ini
7m
6a
The big brother of "Mini". Steep technical face climbing on good edges.
7
Turbo Lover
12m
7b+
Climb the overhanging corner.
8
Let's Rock this Way !
12m
7a
Overhanging dihedral which requires stemming. Airy finish.
9
Sica Power
12m
8b+?
Project. Steep face climbing. The glued holds have been removed.
Ini and Mini routes
13
Down to the Ground
8m
7c
Overhanging crack. Glued holds.
14
Jumpin' at the Shadows
12m
7b+
Technical climb on sidepulls and underclings.
15
Thunderstruck
10m
6a+
The line goes along a large crack. You need a good layback technique.
16
Buza Dulce
10m
6b+
Technical climb on the face just left from the dihedral on sidepulls.
17
Bozia Nervoasa
12m
5b
Slabby face climbing on a stair-like rock. Balance move (crux) just before the top.
18
Stop Digging
12m
5a
Power start, and then balance climbing on slabby face.
Continue upwards and left to the same lower-off as "Bozia Nervoasa".
The Jack - Frontal view
3
Mo
10m
7a
Narrow overhanging crack climbing.
4
Maini
10m
7a
Steep face climbing. Glued hold before the top.
Turbo Lover
10
Somebody Stop Me !
12m
7c
Face climbing on underclings.
11
Heavy Duty
12m
7c
The line goes through the left side of the overhanging crack. Glued holds.
12
Forge Cocs Total
10m
8a
Climb same crack, this time by its right side.
Bozia Nervoasa
19
I Made This
12m
6b
Start on the slabby face then continue upwards on edges.
20
Kids Stuff
10m
5c
Hard start move to pass the bulge on slopers, then exit on the ledge (rest place).
The slabby face above is easy terrain.
21
Vertical S
10m
6c+
Direct climbing over the arcade on pockets and underclings.
Shares the lower-off with "Kids Stuff".
22
The Jack
10m
6b
Start on big holds with stemming moves, then a long reach to the crack (crux).
To climb the crack you need a few linked power moves then continue on the easy
slabby face to the lower-off.
23
Ugly Duck
10m
7a
Balance climbing on shallow pockets and edges.
24
Arcudemicus
10m
7b+
The grade is also considered to be a soft 7c.
The entry goes upwards and left.
Friction face climbing, with long reaches on edges. Chipped holds.
25
Super Duck
10m
7c+
The grade is also considered to be a hard 7c.
Face climbing on edges. Chipped holds.
26
Power Flower
10m
6c+
Easy start on the slabby face, then continue along the dihedral with bridging technique.
27
Turn Around
10m
7a+
Start upwards and right, then go back to the left. Edge climbing.
28
Turn Me On
10m
7c
This is a route with a typical bouldery start, then all you need is attention.
The Jack - Side view
Franz Joseph Sector
Access: Follow the trail behind the chalet (there are wooden stairs in place),
and in 5 minutes you'll reach the belvedere spot "Stanca Franz Joseph".
Descend the steep slope on the left side of the belvedere spot and you'll reach the base of the crag.
Character: The routes share the same character: steep face climbing on pockets.
Bolting: Routes equipped with expansion bolts and linked expansion bolts lower-offs.
1
Burduf
15m
6b+
The left most route from this sector. Start on big holds then climb the overhanging dihedral.
There is no proper lower-off.
2
Camembert
15m
7a+
Face climbing on edges. In the last section the climb steepens.
3
Rochefort
15m
7a+
Sustained climb with long reaches on pockets.
Shares first three bolts with "Camembert".
4
Schweizer
15m
6a+
Beautiful climb on pockets. First crux is in the middle section (long reach upwards and left).
Before the slabby face under lower-off there is another long reach.
Franz Joseph - Left
5
Parmezan
15m
6a
Climb the easy pillar, then continue up the face on big pockets.
Technical route, with a difficult move in its middle section.
6
Cas
15m
6a
Shares the start with "Parmezan", then "Cas" continues to the right.
Big pockets and sidepull climbing, with a long reach in the middle section.
Same lower-off as "Parmezan".
7
Telemea
15m
5c
The right most route from this sector.
Start with face climbing on pockets. Continue with a long reach (crux) then
traverse slightly to the left under the overhanging dihedral.
Finish on the slabby face.
Franz Joseph - Right
La Izvor Sector
Access: Walk on the trail marked with blue stripe from "Poiana Stanii" to "Sinaia",
and you'll reach the water spring in about 10 minutes.
50 meters further on, you'll see "Bolovanul de la Izvor" on your left.
Character: Face climbing on edges.
Bolting: Route equipped with expansion bolts and linked expansion bolts as lower-off.
1
The Fuck of the Century
7m
6c+
Short and bouldery route on a smooth face. Friction climbing.
