|
|
|
 |
Info Point |
 |
|
 |
|
 |
|
Rock climbing - Zarnesti Crangu Ciorii |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 10 %
|
70 %
|
20 %
|
0 %
|
60 m
|
S
|
30 min
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| * *
|
* * *
|
* * *
|
*
|
No
|
No
|
Rating
|
|
|
17 sport climbing routes
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Orientation
|
|
|
GPS Gura Raului
45.547207 N
25.301324 E
|
GPS Crangul Ciorii
45.540505 N
25.292196 E
|
|
To reach "Crangul Ciorii", drive from "Brasov" on the national road DN73 in the direction of "Pitesti".
Continue on until you reach "Rasnov" town. Just after the center of "Rasnov",
turn right on the secondary road DN73A in direction of "Zarnesti".
Once you enter "Zarnesti", continue straight ahead (take care because the road DN73A turns right)
until you reach the old town center.
Cross the town heading SW until you reach the "Gura Raului" chalet.
|
|
Continue driving on the country road with the river to your left.
This road will lead you to "Prapastiile Zarnestilor", but you don't need to drive so far.
Shortly you'll see on your left side the old limestone quarry (GPS 45.540375 N ; 25.2953795 E).
Park the car in a place sheltered from falling rock falls (total driving time 50 minutes).
From here, go up the steep slope on your right by following the unmarked trail at the left side
of the landslide. Once you climbed a small gully (total walking time 15 minutes)
continue on the same trail until you'll see the cave from the "Grota" sector on your right
(total walking time 20 minutes).
|
|
|
|
|
How to get here
|
Bike stop
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sectors
|
|
The old quarry
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Grota Sector
|
|
Access: This is the first sector you'll reach as you ascend the slope from the parking place.
|
|
Character: Climbing on pockets and edges.
|
|
Bolting: Old expansion bolts.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Grota
|
|
|
|
|
| 1
|
| Surplomba Carierei
|
|
| 30m
|
7a?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
As you go from the "Grota" sector to the "Asterix", just before traversing a debris area, a short
climb to the right will get you to the base of this route, which is rarely climbed.
The climb goes upwards and right. The route is not drawn in the photo-topo.
|
| 2
|
Calificari '92
|
|
|
|
|
|
20m
|
6c
|
|
|
The route entry is situated 20-25m uphill from the small cave, immediately after a small pillar on your
right side as you go up at the base of the wall.
There are three old pitons in the lower section, then you reach a ledge.
Continue on expansion bolts on the steep face above on the line where the stone has a grayish color.
The route is not represented in photo-topo.
|
|
| 3
|
Lotus
|
|
|
|
|
|
15m
|
6c+
|
|
|
Start from the cave using bridging technique. First bolt is at 3m height.
Go over the lip of the cave on underclings, then continue up the face to the lower-off.
|
| 4
|
Amigo 1
|
|
|
|
|
|
15m
|
6b
|
|
|
This route is 4m right from "Lotus".
Start upwards and left then climb the arcade above on its left end.
|
| 5
|
Amigo 2
|
|
|
|
|
|
15m
|
6b+
|
|
|
Similar character with the route on its left, but this time climb the arcade by its center.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Asterix Sector
|
|
Access: Continue walking up the hill along the wall to your right.
In less than 5 minutes you'll reach the base of the "Asterix" sector.
|
|
Character: Mostly steep face climbing on pockets.
|
|
Bolting: The routes are equipped with expansion bolts, buy you'll find some pitons as well.
The "Asterix" and "Obelix" routes have been recently rebolted with stainless steel expansion bolts. Linked bolts lower-offs.
|
|
|
|
|
Asterix - Panoramic view
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Magma Sector
|
|
Access: To reach the "Magma" sector, start from the "Asterix" sector and continue walking up the hill
along the base of the wall to your right.
You'll reach a debris area which you'll traverse while slightly ascending.
Take care because you don't need to ascend the gully from which the debris comes from!
Soon after you traverse the debris area you'll reach the base of the "Magma" sector.
|
|
Character: Long routes with grades between 6b+ and 6c. Mostly face climbing.
|
|
Bolting: Expansion bolts and pitons.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Magma Sector
|
|
|
|
|
| 1
|
Magma
|
|
|
|
|
|
22m
|
6b+
|
|
|
Start behind the corner with balance moves. Pass the small roof by its right side (crux),
then traverse back left until you reach the crack. Climb this crack with finger and foot jams.
In the upper part of the wall, you should traverse left and then climb upwards and right to the top.
Airy section just before the lower-off.
|
| 2
|
Albatros
|
|
|
|
|
|
22m
|
6c
|
|
|
Located just right to "Magma". Airy face climbing.
|
| 3
|
Cliff
|
|
|
|
|
|
10m
|
6c+
|
|
|
Short, bouldery route.
|
| 4
|
Booty
|
|
|
|
|
|
30m
|
6a+
|
|
|
Start on the crack. The pitons are hidden by vegetation.
Belay stance on a ledge, then continue along the face and a dihedral to the top.
|
|
| 5
|
Vitezomania
|
|
|
|
|
|
2LC
|
5c
|
|
|
The first pitch starts on the corner with balance moves. Climb a beautiful dihedral which leads you under an overhang.
The second pitch goes along the dihedral to the crest.
Descend from this route and also from the next two ones, by abseiling.
|
| 6
|
Partizan
|
|
|
|
|
|
2LC
|
6b+
|
|
|
The first pitch starts on a vegetation covered section, then it continues up the face on edges with balance moves.
Climb the overhang by its left side.
The second pitch continues up the face and ends on the crest.
|
| 7
|
Surplomba Ciorii
|
|
|
|
|
|
2LC
|
6a+
|
|
|
The first pitch shares the start with "Partizan".
Climb the overhang by its right side (old pitons).
The second pitch leads you to the crest.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
 |
Vacations |
|
|
Accommodations |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
