The crag is located on the outskirts of the "Bucegi" mountains, in the lower basin of "Valea Seaca a Caraimanului".
The short, bouldery routes are
mostly face climbing with small overhanging sections.
The conglomerate rock makes climbing here very interesting.
Bolting: Safe bolting with expansion bolts. Chain lower-offs.
Sun: The crag is sheltered by trees, making climbing here a real pleasure during hot summer days.
Rain: During light rain the routes remain dry, but we do not recommend climbing here
after periods of heavy rain.
Seasons: This is the perfect place to climb in summer, as well
as on dry days in spring and autumn.
We don't recommend climbing here in winter.
Bucegi - The Sphynx
Bucegi - Babele
Orientation
GPS Kalinderu 45.419668 N
25.524538 E
GPS Piranha Crag 45.421487 N
25.515136 E
To reach the "Piranha" crag, go by car from "Brasov" on the national road DN1 in the direction of "Bucharest".
Drive along the "Timis" and the "Prahova" valleys until you reach the small town of "Busteni".
Once you get to "Busteni", turn right on the street called "Valea Alba". Just after a big right turn,
you should turn left on one of the small asphalted streets that lead to the base of the "Kalinderu" ski slope.
You can park the car here (total driving time 60 minutes).
From here continue on walking on the ski slope that has the shape of the letter "S" in its lower part.
When you reach the second pillar of the ski-lift, exit the ski-slope to the right
on a small country road (total walking time 15 minutes).
After crossing the ski-lift, the country road turns into a trail marked with a red cross.
Walk along this trail on the contour line which leads you to the river bed of "Valea Seaca a Caraimanului"
(total walking time 40 minutes).
Just before descending into the river bed, climb the steep slope to your left.
In less than 100m you'll reach the crag's base (total walking time 45 minutes).
How to get here
Intense activity
Routes
Character: Short and bouldery routes. Some of them have overhanging sections. The rock is conglomerate.
Bolting: Expansion bolts. Chain lower-offs.
Piranha Crag
1
Guvidu'
10m
6a+
Slabby face.
2
Stavridu'
10m
6c
Friction face climbing.
3
Macrou'
10m
7a
Located just right of the moss covered area. Overhanging dihedral.
4
Don't Try This At Home
10m
8b?
Project. One bouldery move at the roof, followed by a 7c+ move.
The overall route difficulty is estimated to 8b.
5
Tes Desires Sont Desordres
10m
8a
Intense moves on good chipped holds.
6
Bah Bah Baksheesh
10m
7c
Overhanging. Climb on a small discontinuous crack system. Cemented rocks in the upper part.
7
A Year In The Mici
10m
7b+
8
Tiparu'
10m
6b+
Crack. Friction and layback climbing.
Piranha Route
9
L'Oeuf Raide
10m
7b+
Friction climbing on small hand-holds.
10
Carasu'
10m
7b
Vertical face climbing on cemented holds.
11
Bibanu'
10m
6c+
The line goes along the gray colored rock.
12
Rama
10m
5b
This is a warm-up climb upwards on a dihedral. Stemming technique.
13
Omida
10m
5c
The face just right of the dihedral, without making use of the dihedral.
14
Limax
10m
6a
The edge which limits the face on right side of dihedral.
15
Piranha
10m
5a
This is the most accessible route from here. Climb along the dihedral with crack from the right end of the crag.
