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Rock climbing - Busteni Costila

Costila

Town: Busteni

Massif: Bucegi


30 %	60 %	10 %	0 %	60 m	SE	60 min

* *	*** * ***	*** * ***	*	No	Yes	Rating

14 sport climbing routes			10 alpine climbing routes

Area character

Located on the outskirts of the "Bucegi" mountains, the "Costila" climbing area features both sport and alpine climbing routes. The routers have several pitches, which are a good place to start for amateur alpine climber. The rock is conglomerate, which makes climbing here very interesting, with shallow pockets and cemented rocks. You can sleep overnight in the "Costila" refuge. There is a small spring about 15 minutes from the refuge where you can get drinking water.

	Bolting: Most of the multi-pitch routes are on pitons, but there are several that were rebolted with glued anchors or expansion bolts. Sport climbing routes are equipped with expansion bolts.
	Sun: The two pillars are facing SE and exposed to sun light until the afternoon. Because of the alpine climate, climbing here is a real pleasure on hot summer days.
	Rain: On rainy days the rock becomes wet easily, but dries as quickly due to the wind.
	Seasons: You can climb all year round, however summer and autumn are the best seasons.

"Costila" refuge

Orientation

	GPS Caminul Alpin 45.422274 N 25.534229 E	GPS Costila Refuge 45.431041 N 25.501198 E
To reach the "Costila" refuge, exit from "Brasov" on the national road DN1 in the direction of "Bucharest". Drive along the "Timis" and the "Prahova" valley until you reach the town of "Busteni". Once you get to "Busteni", turn right on the street called "Valea Alba" and continue until you reach "Caminul Alpin", where you can park the car (total driving time 60 minutes). From "Caminul Alpin" walk on the trail which leads to the "Omu" peak via the "Cerbului" valley. Soon you'll reach a fork (total walking time 20 minutes). The marked trail towards the "Omu" peak through the "Cerbului" valley continues on the contour line to the right, but you must follow the trail marked with a yellow

triangle on the left of "Valea Alba". Continue on this trail until you reach a small clearing (total walking time 40 minutes). After crossing this clearing, the path turns right and the slope steepens. Climb the steep slope by zigzagging through the forest and then you'll reach a small spring which is the source for drinking water (total walking time 45 minutes). Continue going uphill and then turn right on the contour level (total walking time 50 minutes). Successively traverse several steep valleys until you reach the river bed of the "Costila" valley. On the other side of the valley you can see the "Costila" refuge (total walking time 60 minutes). The climbing routes are on the two pillars which guard the valley, called "Tancul Mic" and "Tancul Ascutit".

How to get here

Climbing in "Costila"

Tancul Mic

Access: From the "Costila" refuge, traverse the river bed of the "Costila" valley. Just after exiting from the river bed, turn right and climb the steep slope. In less than 5 minutes you'll reach the base of "Tancul Mic".

Character: Multi-pitch routes recommended for amateur alpine climbers.

Bolting: Mostly piton equipped routes. The new climbs are bolted with glued or expansion bolts.

Tancul Mic	Abyssus Inexpugnabilis
	First ascent

1	Veverita
	3LC	3B
	The left most route. Mostly crack climbing. Free climbing difficulty: 6c+ (crux in the second pitch).
2	Flamura Rosie
	3LC	3A
	Easy route which does not go beyond 5c if free-climbed.
3	Suzana
	4LC	5B
	First ascent in 1975 belongs to a team of Czech climbers. Free climbing grade: 7a. The first pitch starts by traversing left and then continues upwards the face with crack. The second pitch goes along a crack system with an overhang in the middle part. Belay stance shared with "Hermann Buhll". In the third pitch traverse right, then upwards, right, upwards and you reach the belay stance. The final fourth pitch goes upward and right over cracks and overhangs.
4	Hardy
	4LC	6c+
	You need several narrow carabiners. The first pitch starts with a small crack then continues upwards the face. The second pitch traverses left, then right and then continue upwards the face for a few meters. Then go upwards and right to the belay stance. In the third pitch start by traversing right to cross "Hermann Buhll" route. Continue to the right, then upwards and then again right. The fourth pitch goes upwards along an arcade-crack upward and left, then straight up.
5	Abyssus Inexpugnabilis
	4LC	7a+
	First ascent in 2008 by Titus Gontea. The route starts just right of "Hardy" and ends on the top of "Tancul Mic", a bit left from the exit of "Suzana". The excellent rock and the "diretissims" character make out of this route one of the finest in the area. Most difficult pitch is the third one.
6	Noua Dictatura
	3LC	6b+
	First ascent in 1999 by George Stroie. The route follows a sinuous line over faces and overhangs. Intersects "Hermann Buhll".
7	Hermann Buhll
	5LC	5A
	First ascent made by Dan Vasilescu and Doru Vasilescu in 1966. Free climbing grade: 6b. The first pitch starts with an overhanging crack, then a traverse to the right, followed by a compact face. Exit over a huge bulge. Belay stance. There is a variation of the entry (author Marius Gane), a bit lower, which starts on an overhang upwards and left, and then you meet the original entry. In the second pitch traverse descending to the left, then climb a chimney to reach a vegetation covered ledge. The third pitch continues upwards and left. In its final part you traverse under an overhang. Continue on same line on fourth pitch, passing successively a chimney followed by a crack, and then a small overhang. The last pitch goes upwards along a chimney, then exits on the ridge. The descent is the same for all routes that end on the crest of "Tancul Mic".

8	Pasarea cu Barba
	3LC	6b
	You need some narrow carabiners. The routes "Pasarea cu Barba" and "Soricelul" share the first part (first ascent by Gheorghe Enache). The rest of the pitches have been bolted by Dan Florescu (who also owns the first ascent of "Hardy").
9	Soricelul
	3LC	6b
	Take some narrow carabiners with you. Start with an overhanging crack, then you leave this first section shared with "Pasarea cu Barba", upwards and right. After the first belay stance you intersect "Fisura Insorita", then continue on the right of "Fisura Insorita".
10	Fisura Insorita
	4LC	5A
	Free climbing grade: 6c+. First ascent made by Gheorghe Enache and P. Pascu in 1951. Start the first pitch on a dihedral, traverse an overhang to its left, then climb upwards and right along a dihedral. In the second pitch traverse left and straight up. The third and the fourth pitches are easy terrain. Descend by abseiling or continue walking on the crest until you reach a pass from where abseil using a tree as anchor point.
11	Fisura Rasucita
	4LC	4B
	First ascent made by Fl. Stan and P. Pascu in 1956. Free climbing grade: 6a. The first pitch starts on the right end of "Tancul Mic". Avoid the overhanging section on its right, then continue upward and right to a small tree. Belay stance. In the second pitch traverse right to the base of a crack. Climb along that crack, traversing succesively to the right. Belay stance. The third pitch goes along a crack, then pass successive ledges traversing right. Continue on the fourth pitch on easy and grassy terrain until you reach the top of the pillar. Descend by abseil or continue walking on the crest until you reach a small pass. From here abseil using a tree as anchor.
Preparing

Tancul Ascutit

Access: Located just behind the "Costila" refuge.

Character: Two pitches alpine routes and one pitch sport routes.

Bolting: The alpine routes are on pitons. Sport climbing ones are equipped with expansion bolts.

Tancul Ascutit

1	Revelion '74
	2LC	3A
	This is the left most route behind the refuge. First ascent made by Dan Vasilescu in the winter of 1974.
2	The Jack
	2LC	6b+
	First ascent by Birlicu'. You need a few narrow carabiners. The first pitch is short, on a compact face with pockets and knobs. Belay stance on a ledge with trees. In the second pitch, continue to the right on the ledge, then cross "Traseul Cataratoruluiu" on a small bulge and then go upwards on the compact face. The last section is overhanging.
3	Traseul Cataratorului
	3LC	4A
	First ascent made by Dan Vasilescu in 1979. The line goes upwards and left and the free climbing grade is no more than 6a+.
4	Scari in Flacari
	20m	7a+
	The route starts just right of "Traseul Cataratorului".
5	Penis Captivus
	20m	7a+
	Face climbing. Inox expansion bolts. Shares the lower-off with "Scari in Flacari".
6	Maresalul Antonescu
	20m	6b+
	The route has the same entrance as "Penis Captivus" and then continues slightly to the right on old expansion bolts. Shares the lower-off with "Scari in Flacari" and "Penis Captivus".

7	Degringolada
	20m	6a+
	The route goes up slightly left of "A.T.P." and ends in the first belay of "A.T.P.".
8	A.T.P.
	2LC	3B
	The name is the acronym from "Asociatia Turismului Popular". Free climbing grades: first pitch 5c, the second one 6b.
9	Prostitutia
	20m	7a+
	The route has the same entrance as "A.T.P.", then it goes up along a narrow crack on old pitons.
10	Odiseea
	2LC	6c+
	Author Geroge Stroie in 1999. Old pitons in place.
11	Lin Hill (Jumatate de Mar)
	2LC	6b+
	Author: Sorin Dicu. Old expansion bolts.
12	Vertical Limits
	22m	6a+
	First ascent made by Vlad Popa in 2000. Starts just left of "Fisura Intrerupta". Old pitons in place.
13	Fisura Intrerupta
	2LC	3B
	This is the most right side route on "Tancul Ascutit". Climb along a discontinued crack in its middle part. Free climbing grade: 5c first pitch, 6a+ the second one.