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Rock climbing - Postavaru Cheile Rasnoavei

Cheile Rasnoavei

Town: Rasnov

Massif: Postavaru


50 %	25 %	20 %	5 %	60 m	Gorge	10 min

* *	*** * ***	*** * ***	*	No	Yes	Rating

28 sport climbing routes			18 alpine climbing or dry-tooling routes

Area character

"Cheile Rasnoavei" is about 10km from "Rasnov" town, on the West of the "Postavaru" massif. The landscape is very attractive and lots of tourists visit the area especially during summer. The routes have a character in-between sport and alpine climbing. Most climbs are multi-pitched. We recommend you to wear a helmet as many routes have loose rock. The rock is limestone, featuring face climbing, cracks or overhangs. You can camp in a tent or stay overnight at one of the many chalets in the area. There is a spring on the left side of the river in the "Creasta Generalului" sector for drinking water. Besides climbing, you can bungee-jump from one of the highest bungee-jumping facilities in Eastern Europe, or you can enjoy the Tyrolean traverse which stretches between the walls on either side of the gorge.

	Bolting: Mostly on pitons. In the alpine routes some sections are equipped with expansion bolts. Sport climbing routes are equipped with expansion bolts (old but safe).
	Sun: Due to the landscape character (gorge) you can find routes exposed to the sun or in the shade. Some of the sports climbing routes are sheltered by the trees, so you can climb in the shade even in hot summer days.
	Rain: On rainy days, the walls get easily wet, hindering any climbing. After long periods of rain you may find water infiltrations.
	Seasons: Summer and autumn are the ideal seasons to climb here. Early in the spring there might be water infiltrations. We don't recommend climbing here in winter.

Landscape in "Cheile Rasnoavei"

Orientation

	GPS Rasnov Centre 45.593820 N 25.460223 E	GPS Gorge 45.545437 N 25.518073 E
Start driving from "Brasov" on the national road DN73 in the direction of "Pitesti". Head towards "Rasnov" and cross straight through the town. Several hundred meters after you exit "Rasnov", continue on the secondary road DN73A towards "Bucharest" via "Paraul Rece".

After several kilometers, you will see the sign to the "Cheile Rasnoavei". Take this country road until you reach a barrier. Take care because this country road has side-roads, but you must stay on the main road. Before the barrier there is a small parking place where you park the car (total driving time 45 minutes). Continue by foot on the country road that leads you into "Cheile Rasnoavei" (total walking time 10 minutes).

How to get here

Postavaru Massif

Sectors

Bucegi Mountains

Santinela Cheii

Access: This is the first sector you'll reach as you go along the country road from "Rasnov".

Character: Mostly alpine routes, but here you can find also a few sport climbing lines.

Bolting: The alpine routes are on pitons. Sport climbing routes have rusty expansion bolts.

Pintenul Magarului

Creasta Frontala

2LC

This is the first route you'll reach. Marked at its base by the army with figure 1. The pitons are encircled with red paint.
The first pitch of 30m long follows the face in the left of the easily visible chimney. Comfortable belay on the top of the pillar.
In the second pitch climb for another 30m the ridge over several ledges. Keep right to avoid the vegetation covered area.
Descent by abseiling or down climbing to the left in the forest on the unmarked trail.

Musca
25m	?

This route and also the next ones were bolted by George Stroie for a dry-tooling contest. It is located three meters to the right of "Creasta Frontala" route. Easy start up to a big hole and then go upward and left on the face. Finish on the ledge above the face.

Tantarul
24m	?

Dry tooling route. Entrance about seven meters at the right of the chimney. Start on one and two finger pockets line upward and left. The first protection piece is an expansion bolt and then two pitons. After climbing the pocket line go upward the face that overhangs in the last section. End on the ledge.

Lacusta
22m	?

Another dry-tooling route.

Creasta Generalului - Entrance detail

Traseul 3

3LC

Alpine route with aid-climbing in first pitch. Marked at its base with figure 3.
The first pitch of 25m long goes over a line of sharp pockets upwards and to the right. Closely spaced pitons (you guessed, circled with red paint). Good belay stance on the second ledge.
The second pitch goes successively over the small ledges which cross the slabby face. Easy to spot the comfortable belay marked with paint.
The third pitch continues up the round crest on easy terrain. You reach the third belay stance from "Creasta Generalului" route.
Descent to the right by following the ledge (steel cable in place), or by abseiling. You have the option to continue climbing on "Creasta Generalului".

Amor Subtil

10m

6c+

Short and bouldery route. Start climbing the steep face and then continue on small edges (closely spaced bolts). Finish on the ledge above.

Traseul 4

2LC

Marked at its base with figure 4.
The first pitch goes upwards and to the left along the ascending ledge and then it passes successively over two horizontal ledges. Belay on the second horizontal ledge.
In the second pitch climb for 40m the inclined face partially covered with vegetation. Belay shared with the second belay from "Creasta Generalului".
Descent following the cable steel protected ledge to the right.

Fluturele
20m	?

First five meters are shared with "Fisura Verde". Start upward and right along the holes, then continue on the face on edges and pockets. You can spot the biggest pocket from the base of the route. In the next section the climb steepens.

Fisura Verde

3LC

The first pitch of 25m long follows the line of pockets upwards and to the right. Belay stance on the crest on your right.
The second pitch continues slightly under the crest line, upward and to the left for another 30m. Comfortable belay on a platform with vegetation.
In the third pitch climb the face above which ends with a large dihedral.
Descent by abseiling or climb down the slope on your left.

Bondarul

20m

Dry tooling route that ends at the first belay of "Pintenul Magarului".

Pintenul Magarului

40m

Marked at its base with figure 2. The line goes along the right crest of the compact triangle face on the left side of the road as we enter the gorge.
The first pitch follows the crest line, being covered with vegetation in its lower part. Belay stance shared with first one from "Fisura Verde".
The second pitch goes just under the crest line, on the face on your right. The pitons are circled with red paint. After 25m we reach the top.
Descent identical with "Fisura Verde".

Creasta Generalului

Creasta Generalului

10LC

"Creasta Generalului" route, also known as "Santinela Cheii" is one of the reference routes in the area. The total time for the entire climb is around 2 to 3 hours. Marked at its base with figure 5.
Start the first pitch directly from the river bed and climb the chimney equipped with pitons. First belay stance is on the platform just above.
In the second pitch climb the steep face on your left (which is very well bolted) and then free-climb on easy terrain until you reach a comfortable ledge.
The third pitch goes over a dihedral with few pitons. Beautiful exit to the ledge above using bridging technique.
The fourth pitch starts with face climbing and then follows the ascendant ledge upwards and right.
In the fifth pitch climb the inclined chimney. Comfortably belay stance on a big ledge. From here you can descent by following the unmarked path to your left. If you decide to climb the entire route, you still have to climb another five pitches on very easy terrain, but on loose rock until you reach a prominent bulge marked with a cross.
Descend on the unmarked path to your left, which zigzags through the forest back to the wall's base.

Surplombele de Aur

Traseul 6

12m

6a+?

Route on old expansion bolts. You can see figure 6 painted to the left.

Traseul 7

12m

Dry tooling route on old expansion bolts. Figure 7 is painted on the route line.

Traseul 7 Bis

12m

Dry tooling route. Old expansion bolts in place.

Panda

22m

5c+

Technical face climbing. The route starts just left of "Cezar Manea".

Cezar Manea

5LC

Known also as "Traseul Jgheabului". Very beautiful route, airy in its upper part. To reach the route base, you must cross the river on the small wood bridge just after the entrance in "Creasta Generalului" route. Walk uphill and to the left until you reach a ledge with a steel cable. Continue on the ledge to the left and you'll see the name of the route painted on the rock.

Alpiniada

5LC

This is a variation of "Cezar Manea". After the second pitch, the two routes come together. The route starts just right of "Cezar Manea".

Traseul 8
30m	7a+?

The route starts just right of the entrance in "Cezar Manea" and ends at the first belay of "Moldoveanu". Loose rock in second half. Take care with the rope drag because the line is sinuous. A 50m long rope will suffice.

20	Traseul 9
	24m	6c+
	Technical route with one hard move at the bulge. It starts just left of "Moldoveanu" and ends at the first belay of "Moldoveanu".
21	Moldoveanu
	3LC	5A
	This alpine route is also known as "Rapelul Suspendat". The first pitch is rather short. Start on a dihedral and then traverse left under a roof. Uncomfortable belay stance. In the second pitch climb for 30m upwards and to the left on solid pitons. The third pitch is short face climbing followed by a chimney. Belay stance shared with the third one from "Sulfinelor" route. Those two routes share the last three pitches. The fourth pitch 25m long, avoid a smooth face by its left side. In the fifth pitch also 25m long, you must free-climb a face rated at 5c and then follow a loose gully upward and left. Belay stance at the upper end of the gully. In the last pitch climb by laybacking a crack (piton with sling) followed by a small bulge and then continue upward and left. Last section until you reach the crest is easy terrain. Descent to the left following the path through the forest.
22	Traseul 10
	28m	7a+
	The grade is also considered to be a hard 7a. The first section is shared with "Moldoveanu", then the route continues slightly to the right of "Moldoveanu", along a dihedral with crack.

Cezar Manea - Base

Postavaru

23	Sulfinelor
	6LC	5B
	This is the second route from left to right between "Cezar Manea" and "Surplombele de Aur". Start the first pitch with a traverse to the left (you will see the first piton), then continue along a beautiful crack followed by a small overhang. Uncomfortable belay stance just above the overhang. In the second pitch climb the chimney and the slightly overhanging crack. You reach then the crux of the route: a large crack without protection pieces. You must free-climb it and then traverse left to the belay stance. The third pitch has an easy start until a piton with a long sling. You make a difficult traverse to the left using the ladders (if you don't have ladders, you can use the big sling to aid yourself). After the traverse you reach the belay stance (same as the third one from "Moldoveanu") Those two routes share the last three pitches (see details on "Moldoveanu" route description).
24	Surplombele de Aur
	8LC	5A
	This is one of the most well-known and climbed routes from "Cheile Rasnoavei". The route is 200m long. Loose rock which overhangs almost on its entire length. To reach the base of the routes cross the river on the small wood bridge which can be easily seen, then climb the stony ramp to the amphitheatre base, where the rock has a yellowish color. The color of the rock inspired the name of the route which means "The Golden Overhangs". Part of the route has been reequipped by Mihai Atanasiu. The firts pitch of 30m long follows a system of cracks and then continues over a series of overhangs. Belay stance using the ladders. This first pitch is bolted properly, so you can free-climb it. Its difficulty level is 7c. The second pitch starts with a short descent to the right and then follows a crack. Comfortable belay stance. The third pitch is the most difficult one. Start towards right (take care, because to your left side there are several pitons from an abandoned try) and follow a crack line with loose pitons, then an overhang with expansion bolts (in former times there were used wood nuts to protect the passage). In the fourth pitch continue upward and right in aid climbing, then free-climbing using layback technique. Comfortable belay stance. The fifth pitch starts to the right, then it continues upwards mostly with aid climbing. Belay stance on the top of a pillar. The sixth pitch has the same character as the previous one. Towards its end you'll climb a vegetation section which finishes on a ledge. This ledge is part of the via ferrata also described in this guide. In the seventh pitch go along a crack line and then traverse to the right until you reach a corner. From this point the route becomes less steep. In the last pitch traverse to the right until you reach a chimney and then free-climb to the top crest. Descend towards the left by following the unmarked path which is shared by all the routes ending on the crest.
25	Patratul Verde
	55m	5c
	Very old route. We don't recommend it. At its base there is a green painted square.

26	Via Ferrata
	200m	5a
	This via ferrata was equipped by "Mihai Mandreanu". To reach the base of the route, cross the river on the small wood bridge and then climb the stony slope to the base of the "Surplombele de Aur" route. From here start climbing upwards and right towards the ridge descending from the pillar to your right. Climb this ridge just under the impressive chimney, and then continue upwards on the face until you reach a ledge. Continue on the ledge, traversing to the left the impressive wall and crossing the "Surplombele de Aur" route in its sixth belay stance. The via ferrata ends on the crest. Descend to the left by following the path that zigzags through the forest.
27	Cifra Sase
	2LC	6b
	The route is located on the left side of the pillar right to "Surplombele de Aur". Cross the river on the small wood bridge then climb the ledge with vegetation towards the base of the pillar. You will see figure 6 painted at route's base. Slabby face in the lower section, then steep climbing in the upper one.
28	Cifra Sapte
	2LC	6b+
	Situated to the right of the previous route. Marked with figure 7 at its base. Same character as the route to its left, a bit harder though.
29	Bin Laden
	15m	7a
	At 100m after you exit from the gorge going upstream, on the right side of the road there is a small wall with the route called "Bin Laden". Easy start, followed by laybacking on a crack, then climb the face on edges. The lower-off is just above a small ledge.
Bin Laden

Bolovanul Prostului

Access: As you exit the gorge going upstream, after 300m on your left side, you will see a small rock.

Character: Short routes. Mostly face climbing with short overhanging sections.

Bolting: Very low quality bolting. You will see a mix of old expansion bolts, pitons and glued bolts.

Bolovanul Prostului

1	Traseul de Initiere
	10m	5a
	In the left end of the sector. Not bolted. There are still to pitons with ring as lower-offs.
2	Traseul Scurt
	8m	5c
	Mixed protection: pitons and expansion bolts. Start where the stone is black at its base.
3	Stamate
	8m	6c+
	The first bolt is s bit too high for the difficulty level. Shares the lower-off with "Traseul Scurt".
4	Pacientul Englez
	12m	5c
	The first bolt hangers have been removed. Chipped holds in lower section.
5	Gauri
	12m	6c+
	Climbing on pockets, as the name of the route suggests. Just to the right there are two more variations on pitons (marked on photo-topo with 5a and 5b).

6	Superfinala
	12m	7a+
	First bolt hanger is missing (the alternative is to use a piton with ring, half a meter lower). Start on big holds and then continue with long reaches on pockets. In the second section the climb steepens and then you climb the slabby face to the lower-off.
7	Logan
	11m	7a+
	This climb shares the entry with "Superfinala". Continue with face climbing upward and right. Glued holds.
8	Traseul in Diagonala
	12m	6c
	Starts just to the right of "Superfinala". It follows the discontinuous crack upwards and right. Friction climbing on pockets and slopers. Mixed protection pieces: pitons, expansion bolts and glued bolts.
9	Sandero
	9m	6c
	This route has two holds screw-attached. Start from the left and of the rock on a loose section and then continue upwards and left, crossing "Traseul Diagonal". Hard finish with long reaches on a smooth face.

Faleza Metal Expert

Access: In this sector there are two pillars shaded by the forrest, just after the "Bolovanul Prostului" sector. After you pass the "Bolovanul Prostului" sector going upstream, start climbing into the forest on the slope on your left. After 75m you will see the two pillars. This sector is a great place to climb in the hot summer days.

Character: Short routes in the medium difficulty range. Face and crack climbing.

Bolting: Stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.

Metal Expert - Left
5	Cangrena
	18m	6a+
	Start on the wide crack with hand jams then continue on the round crest which looses its steepness.
6	Maseaua Lucrata
	18m	6b
	Easy start on a dihedral with crack. Continue on the smooth face (crux) and finish on the same line as "Cangrena".
7	Mamatiti
	18m	6a+
	Start with face climbing on two or three finger pockets and then climb the wide crack.
8	Mosquitos
	18m	6a+
	The discontinuous crack. Layback technique.

1	Atentie la Buzunare
	20m	5a
	The slabby face from the left end of the pillar (vegetation on its left side). There is a variation rated at 6b if you climb directly through the middle smooth face.
2	Duda
	25m	5a
	Follows the obvious crack line from the central part of the pillar.
3	Scara Scarabeului
	25m	?
	Easy start, then go upwards and right over the steep and smooth face.
4	Fisura cu Copac
	20m	6b
	Start on the slabby face just right the dihedral. Continue then on the face on your left.
Metal Expert - Right

Bouldering in Cheile Rasnoavei

Access: Follow the dirt road up the stream until you exit the "Cheile Rasnoavei" gorge. Cross the stream to your left and you'll find several boulders where there are some bouldering route.

Character: Small sandstone boulders (5m height). Overhanging routes on slopers.