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Rock climbing - Brasov Tampa |
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Tampa
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Town: Brasov
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Massif: Postavaru
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| 35 %
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35 %
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30 %
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0 %
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60 m
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SW
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45 min
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| * * *
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* * *
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* * *
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* *
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No
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Yes
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Rating
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30 sport climbing routes
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Area highlights
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"Tampa" mountain dominates the town of "Brasov" with its impressive heights.
The peak is located nearby the old town of "Brasov" and is reachable
either by cable car or a 45 minute hike up one of the many marked trails.
The rock is solid limestone, with a large variety of holds, from one finger pockets to large cracks.
The limestone in the slabby area has blue-grayish color and the grip is excellent.
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Bolting: Nowadays, the routes are bolted in compliance with the international standards.
Most of the routes are equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts and chain lower-offs, except for a few routes
that still have old bolts or pitons.
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Sun: The crag has a SW orientation and is sunny from noon to sunset.
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Rain: On rainy days, the crag can easily become wet but it can dry quickly,
especially if the wind is strong.
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Seasons: During the summer, when the crag is directly exposed to the sun,
we recommend climbing only in the morning or in the evening.
In winter, if the sun shines and there is no wind, you can climb here wearing only a T-shirt.
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View from "Tampa" crag
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Orientation
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GPS Piata Sfatului
45.642191 N
25.588982 E
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GPS Tampa Crag
45.632914 N
25.590752 E
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To reach the "Tampa" crag, start from "Piata Sfatului" (the heart of the medieval town of "Brasov").
From "Piata Sfatului" go to "Poarta Schei" along "Baritiu" street heading SW direction,
then on "Sirul Beethoven" street heading S (total walking time 5 minutes).
Then follow "Tiberiu Brediceanu" alley heading S, which will take you
to "Olimpia" sports base (total walking time 10 minutes).
From here, you must head S following the blue stripe marked trail,
along the edge of the forest.
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Follow the blue stripe trail until you reach a clearing
where you turn left into the forest (total walking time 20 minutes).
Start going up the gentle slope on the same marked trail, and after a few zigzags
you will reach a crossroad (total walking time 25 minutes).
Follow the path to the left until you reach another crossroad (total walking time 30 minutes).
From this point don't go either on the left or on the right marked trails,
but follow the unmarked trail between the two.
Pass a stony section and then follow the unmarked trail which wanders through pine and beech trees.
Before arriving at the crag, you will go through another small stony section (total walking time 45 minutes).
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How to get here
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The crux from "Micul Septar"
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Climbing sectors
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"Long Time", 8a+
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Left Sector
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Character: In this sector you can find a few routes ranging from grade 5a to 6c.
The routes have short but hard moves.
Mostly face climbing with short slightly overhanging sections.
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Bolting: The routes are equipped with expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
The first two routes on the left (the easiest ones) have no proper lower-offs.
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| 1
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| Hornul
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| 6m
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5a+
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The route goes along the chimney from the left end. Bridging technique.
Unbolted route. Some nuts or friends may help.
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| 2
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| Lingura
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| 6m
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5b+
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Crux just before lower-off. Bridging technique again.
The lower-off consists of an old screw gate carabiner.
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| 3
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Flash Clasic
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10m
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6b
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Exposed start. You need good foot technique and balance moves to climb the first section.
Continue slightly to the right over a small wing and then upwards to the lower-off.
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| 4
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Flash Direct
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10m
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6c
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Balance moves on a sustained route. You need well trained fingers to climb this route.
Same lower-off as "Flash Clasic".
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"Tampa" crag
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Central Sector
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Character: Difficult routes with long reaches on one or two finger pockets.
In the right side of this sector there are several airy and long routes of medium difficulty.
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Bolting: Expansion bolts and chain lower-offs.
Keep in mind that some of the lower-offs are shared,
so be careful if more than one team is climbing in this sector.
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| 10
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Body Building
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10m
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7a+
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A small overhang at the beginning of this route leads you on a ledge where hard moves start.
You need strong fingers (hence the name of the route) and good foot technique to succeed the climb.
Enjoy one or two finger pockets on the route!
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| 11
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Bloody Building
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10m
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7b+
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This route is a variation of "Body Building". The difference is that you start
climbing directly over the lower overhang, which makes the route harder.
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| 12
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Paranoid
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10m
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8a
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First part of the route consists of powerful moves on small foot holds.
Then you will find a rest place.
The second part has long reaches on friction climbing.
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| 13
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Long Time
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6m
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8a+
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Sustained and complex route.
Powerful moves on one or two good finger pockets but with long reaches.
The second slightly overhanging section is climbed using the friction technique.
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Central Sector - Routes
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| 14
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Surplomba
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12m
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7c+
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There are two variations for this route.
The "classic" one increases in intensity, with powerful locks on one or two finger pockets towards its end.
The start is not difficult at all.
The second variation which starts a little bit to the left (without making use of the dihedral) is
estimated to 8a+ and it was not free-climbed yet.
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| 15
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Blitzkrieg
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12m
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7c
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Small pockets in first part, then a rest place on a good pocket.
The crux consists of crimpy and balance moves on a slightly overhanging section.
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| 16
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On Sight
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12m
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7a+
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Spectacular route featuring lock-offs on good pockets.
Good rest position on big pocket shortly after start. Try to climb this route on-sight!
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| 17
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Napalm
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10m
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7b+
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The route follows the edge on the right of "On Sight".
Sustained route, on pockets with finger jams.
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| 18
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Cuie Putrede
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6m
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5b+
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The route starts from the ledge at half-height of the wall. You reach there by climbing
any of the routes which end on that ledge.
Steep climbing on first section, then easy terrain.
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| 19
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Pasarea Colibri
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6m
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7a
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The route starts from the ledge at half-height of the wall, a little bit to the left from
"Gauroaie". Fingery route.
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| 20
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Nunta Zamfirei
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26m
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6b+
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The route starts with a technical sequence on overhanging chimney and continues on the steep face.
Enjoy the jug before the top! Same lower-off as "Gauroaie" and "Diedrul".
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| 21
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Gauroaie
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28m
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6a
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This route is a classic one. Very spectacular for his level of difficulty!
The entrance move is not as hard as it looks like, but you need commitment to complete it.
The main section features several jugs, but don't forget to keep an eye on your foot technique.
Same lower-off as "Nunta Zamfirei" and "Diedrul".
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| 22
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Diedrul
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30m
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5b
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Start by a large stemming move to the left (if you don't feel safe, you may use a big sling into
the hour-glass hole to protect yourself).
Further, avoid the overhang by its left side and then follow the large dihedral slightly to the right.
There are two options to finish the route: either by continuing to the right, or by going to the left
and passing over a small cave, then reaching the lower-off shared with "Gauroaie".
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Central Sector - "Surplomba" route area
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The entrance in "Diedrul"
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The entrance in "Long Time"
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Albastrele Sector
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Character: "Albastrele" sector has a handful of routes in which the character varies
from slabs to steep face climbing.
The routes are long and have only one or two hard moves.
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Bolting: The routes are equipped with old but safe expansion bolts. You will find a few pitons as well.
The bolts which were not safe or were not optimally placed, have been replaced.
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Vacations |
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Accommodations |
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